The very first Star Trek episode to air was called “The Man Trap.” A team from the Enterprise (Kirk, Bones and someone named Darnell) lands on planet M-113, where a married couple of archeologists live. Things get complicated right away, because the wife, Nancy, and Bones had a fling in their youth—but we later learn that each of the crew members sees Nancy as a different woman.
Long story short, the woman is a shape-shifting “salt vampire” who will do anything to satisfy her need for salt. I don’t recall how the crew vanquishes the salt vampire, but needless to say, they continue boldly going where no man has gone before.
It seems that a salt vampire is residing at Joe Mama’s Grill on Oracle Road. It’s the only explanation for the food there, which we found to be lacking in salt. Salt has a somewhat negative reputation these days, but it is the most essential ingredient in food prep; it can bring out the flavor of the other ingredients in both savory and sweet dishes. Too much salt or too little salt, and a dish is ruined.
Since Joe Mama’s is a fast-casual spot, you order at a counter—a long, gleaming counter. The decor hasn’t changed much since the building’s previous incarnation; it’s sparse and has a sort of “chain” feel to it.
A large menu is on one wall. It included some intriguing options: omelettes and other breakfast items, burgers, sandwiches, salads and house-made baked goods (which are displayed near the ordering counter—all the better to tempt you).
There’s an assortment of house burgers, but we opted for a “custom burger” ($6.99) with blue-cheese crumbles (an additional 99 cents) lettuce, avocado (49 cents) and Thousand Island dressing. There’s a plethora of other burger-topping options; the menu says the meat is grass-fed beef.
Burgers are supposed to be juicy and oozing with beefy flavor—but this burger just wasn’t. Even all of those great toppings didn’t help. Stuffed into a dry bun and served at room temperature, this burger was a disappointment.
The Southwest eggs Benedict ($6.99) arrived at the table a bit later. This dish—one of my all-time favorites—comes with jalapeño cornbread, chorizo and a pesto hollandaise, along with the poached eggs. With all of that going on, this dish should’ve popped with flavor, but like the burger, it was bland—even the chorizo. The only thing you could really taste was the pesto (an odd choice for a “Southwest” dish). The fruit kabob that accompanied it was the only bright spot.
We hoped for better food on visit No. 2, but alas, it wasn’t to be. We ordered the French toast kabobs ($5.99), the Nob Hill omelette ($8.49), a cinnamon roll ($1.49), a side of bacon (two pieces for $1.49) and two coffees ($1.99 each). With tax and tip, that adds up to more than $25 for breakfast.
We got our coffee at the condiment bar, and sat down and waited … and waited.
First to the table was the omelette; then we waited some more before the other plates arrived—and both entrées were served lukewarm. Timing is everything in this business. However, the place wasn’t busy, and there were a sufficient number of people cooking in the open kitchen and serving. They were all friendly, but this shouldn’t have happened.
The French toast kabobs were big, puffy chunks of French toast on a stick. Syrup and yogurt were served on the side—but there was no butter. Texturally, this was a clever take, but again, the dish was missing the basic flavors that make French toast such a treat.
The Nob Hill omelette was filled with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, organic baby spinach and artichoke hearts. We ordered it with rosemary potatoes (other choices include hash browns or a fruit kabob) and a biscuit (other choices are toast or tortillas). The only flavor in the omelette came from the cheese (and only about half of the dish had cheese in it). The buttermilk biscuit was flaky and light, but it needed salt. Even the cinnamon roll fell short, thanks to too much icing, which dominated any cinnamon spiciness.
As a plus, the server did offer samples to everyone of a house treat called muffcakes (50 cents)—gem-sized muffins in the flavor of the day (tropical fruit with lime-cream-cheese filling). It was a nice touch.
A “modern diner” is a great idea for a restaurant. But in order to be successful, there has to be a plan in place that incorporates timing, service, pricing and the concept that salt, when used properly, is a chef’s best friend.
This article appears in Sep 30 – Oct 6, 2010.
-Can’t vouch for anything else, but the Breakfast Burrito is excellent, as is the Pulled Pork sandwich.
-Service may be a bit slow, but is definitely friendly.
-I guess Tucson Weekly had to put a restaurant in their crosshairs, and Joe Mama’s was it.
-For me, the prices are super low, the menu versatile, and the decor pleasant enough, if a bit corporate.
-Not a bad breakfast or lunch spot, imo.
-JS
Are you from outer space? I beg to differ! The french toast kabobs are excellent and the best I have ever had, very unique!! The SW eggs benedict is packed full of flavor with really spicy chorizo and they bake there own jalapeno cornbread. Have you eaten eggs bene anywhere else? this is the most creative spin on it that I’ve ever seen. The Killer Mama Burger is delicious and very juicy. Salt is really bad for you and I’m happy they have found a middle ground with not over salting there dishes (Did you notice the salt on the table??). The Nob Hill omelette is extremely flavorful, what a great combination, it’s also very good with egg whites if your watching your calorie intake like I am. I’m not sure what your talking about when you say the prices are high? They even offer a $2.99 breakfast special M-F before 9:30am (I haven’t figured out how they make a profit on this meal yet). Something to consider is that it’s a husband and wife running the restaurant probably on a small budget. It’s not a big budget chain or even a franchise. Isn’t more small business what our economy needs right now. Tipping is optional at least you don’t have to leave 20 or even 15%. Their concept is counter order with a full service feel. Don’t expect a fast food pace but a moderate cooked to order time frame without the hassle of a sit down style restaurant. I don’t know about you but I’m tired of the same old country themed sit down diners. I was way ready for something more modern and earthy!! If you had ever actually eaten at the mexican restaurant that was there before it was Joe Mama’s, you would know that they changed it a lot and they got rid of the awful pink color. Anyone reading this review shouldn’t take this mind altered treky’s distasteful opinion and go try this family owned and operated establishment for themselves. Scotty, beam him back up to his ship…
I love Joe Mama’s. A place that cares about you and your family when you go out to eat. What a treat! The food is fresh and made to order and someone stops by the table to check on you several times. Pei Wei, Subway and the rest of the counter service joints could care less! We need to support the locals and stop slamming them. Emily I think you need to order your Big Mac and watch your old Star Track shows. Add salt as needed!
Ryan
And then of course you can challenge the Klingons for interstellar domination.
You know what, this article speaks the truth. The food was good when they first opened then the last two times we visited the place it was like they decided to add no flavor to anything. We are planning not to go back at all, however, we can only support local if they are good and sorry this place is not.
I read your review of Joe Mamas and could not believe this was the same place that I have visited on many occasions. Your review is by far the most negative review I have ever read. The reviewer must have had a bad day. This new restaurant is a pleasant departure from the other alternative dinning options in the area. I find that the menu offers reasonable pricing and inovative menu options. The quality is consistent and the staff also checks every table to insure satisfaction. Your reviewer is salt deficient and must have a palate for fast food where there is an abundance of salt. The burgers offered are the best in Tucson. The buns used are the same offered at Zin Burger.
I think that the Weekly has done a dis-service to this indepentent Family restaurant. This restaurant needs to have the Tucson Weekly readers try it personally just to discover hw wrong this review is.
Gary Aegerter
I always get a kick out of the folks who beat up on food reviewers. It just their opinion folks-take it or leave it. But to attack the critic by implying she had a bad day or has an axe to grind (“distasteful opinion”-really?) is ridiculous. The critic is under no obligation to support local business-she just reports what her opinion is.
My wife and I usually look at the tucson weekly for the chow section only, as we are always trying to locate new places to eat and enjoy ourselves. Now I don’t know what made your reviewer submit a review on Joe Mamas like she did, but she must have been having a bad day. We have eaten at Joe Mamas many, many times and have brought our family and friends over to give it a try. We all keep going back because of the food and the friendliness of the owners and the waitstaff. Your reviewer stated that the food wasn’t prepared with salt. To alot of folks thats good. I do however, know where the salt shaker is on the table and I pick it up and use it when I wish too. Today we enjoyed the fish tacos (my wife) and I had the blue cheese hamburger. The burger was cooked med rare, (just the way I like it) and the bun was excellent. The fish tacos needed a little more sauce and I asked for some and we received it. All in all a great meal. I wonder if your chow reviewer cooks for numerous people on a daily basis, all having different tastes or does she just go from restaurant to restaurant and try to screw up folks trying to make a go of it. Having been in the Marines for 24 years and have eaten all over the world, believe me I know what bad food tastes like. Joe Mamas puts out excellent food at a reasonable price and I do recommend them to any and all who reads this post. Give them a try. In the future we will think twice about going to restaurants that your reviewer gives good reviews too, as she clearly doesn’t know what she is talking about.
Semper Fi. the Ol’ Master Guns
The writer of this article must live in a salt mine! As of yesterday, it is one of the best 3 restaurants in Tucson, with owners that care and pay attention to their customers. We eat there often and honestly the pulled pork sandwich is the best we have had anywhere in the US – including the south and east. We traveled constantly for 10 years all over the U.S. – about 100,000 miles a year and this restaurant stands high amongst the top 10 of all of them! We will continue to go there OFTEN!
My husband and I just had one of the best breakfasts we have had yet in our short three years in Tucson! The steak was so tender I could cut it with my fork…the eggs over medium were perfectly done, the fruit was fresh, and the coffee was so good I slurped it! My husband didn’t say anything until he was done…not one word…..then said “Can I order another breakfast?” He didn’t but he said it was that good! It was very reasonably priced and the portion’s filled us up until lunch.
We too are amazed – incredulous- at the review of Joe Mama’s. Living 3 blocks from the place, we have eaten there a half dozen times and the food -most of which has been described in other comments above – has never disappointed. In fact, the burgers, omelettes, breakfast steaks, coffee, beverages and pastries have been outstanding.
What bothers me most about this review – notwithtanding the writer’s salt deficiency syndrome and its inaccuracy – is the fact that this is a locally owned and operated restaurant awash in a sea of me-too franchises just a stroll away. I am guessing the owners went to considerable expense in opening and now employing probably 10 cooks and waitpersons.
It is a shame the reviewer took pains to denigrate a family owned and operated business opening in a terrible economy in a town full of franchises serving ersatz Italian, Mexican and Greek garbage to go after a local gem in the making.
Rita, the small bottle on the table with the crystals in it contains salt. Use it as freely as suit your tastes.
My problem with Joe Mama’s? It is not yet open for dinner.
Its sounds to me like in most negative reviews most of these postings are the owners or managers trying to save face. Just take a look a look at “pura vida” they are marketing while trying to tell the reviewer she doesn’t know what she is talking about.
Pretty pathetic, we in Tucson know the difference. This article will go away this week but your review will stay forever. I have never eaten there and I probably will not but it seems that they think this are “first rodeo” here in town. Get a grip owners we know good food here in Tucson and bad food.
RicaCarne-
You’re a cynic, and moreover, totally incorrect. I was the first poster to comment, and am a grad student at the U of A, in no way affiliated with Joe Mama’s Grill. I actually teach English 101, so I do know this isn’t “are first rodeo.”
Support local!
-Joel Smith
Wow! this is not a review I would have ever expected for joe mamas grill! I have to say that it left me feeling like the laws of the universe had some how slipped into a parallel dimension where bad is good and excellent is extraordinarily hideous, where the oligarchy have greedily bought up all the McDonalds fast food chains to insure their domination over all the precious shares of the substance called sodium; known for its addictive flavorful life extending properties that give the users power to become immortalized by turning them into statues of salt (Scotty please beam me back to reality!) Sheesh!!! Sorry! I got a little carried away!
Now having said that; I would like to bring this back to reality! I myself have personally eaten at joe mamas about 5 times, and would have eaten there more often if they were open past 3:00pm, one of my favorite dishes is the killer mama as well as their breakfast selection. I’ve always found it to be delicious food with friendly attentive service, and not to mention their prices are very reasonable.
This coming from a person who can say “I love salt a little to much” I’ve never had much of a problem finding the salt shaker in the middle of the table at Joe Mama’s Grill in any of my experiences eating there, and I love being given the freedom I feel to choose “To shake or not to shake” Thank you!
I find it hard to swallow this review. My family and I visit Joe Mama’s grill at least 2-3 times a month and we have never had a bad experience. We love it! I am shocked by the Tucson weekly’s review of this restaurant. It seems very off! I have no problem bringing my friends to Joe Mama’s and have recommended it many times to people without question. The food is amazing not to mention artfully plated (which I enjoy.) We have tried the Killer Mama Burger, The Geisha salad, the incredible B-B-Q sandwich, the Pesto Chicken sandwich and the yummy cranberry almond fudge. We will definitely continue to frequent this restaurant. The owners and staff never fail to recognize that we are regulars and always treat us with great service. What a nice feeling in a town of get-’em-in, get-’em-out franchise restaurants. It’s so refreshing to be acknowledged. People, don’t take the Tucson Weekly’s review to heart, I encourage you to try for your self; you will not be disappointed!
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