When it comes to eating Italian stateside, you essentially have three options. There’s the upscale, handmade and tradition-focused cuisine that oft brands itself as a modern trattoria. There are also the deli-style pasta houses that serve up big portions in Italian-American style, offering a distinct take on classic dishes. Of course, there are also junk food Italian joints like Olive Garden that offer fat-saturated eats quickly and with bargain basement special pricing.
I’m not here to tell you which of the three to eat at, as I’ve found myself craving perfectly-crafted, al dente noodles or an endless supply of breadsticks as much as the next guy. They all serve a purpose at some point, right?
Walking into Dominick’s Real Italian, I expected the family-style Italian-American genre of cooking, despite being billed as “Real Italian.” I try to manage expectations, though I’ve found myself surprised time and time again by the food you find in Arizona strip malls. In this case, Dominick’s shares its street corner with several other eateries, including a Jerry Bob’s and a Mama’s Hawaiian BBQ, as well as a Texas-style and a Mexican restaurant, on the corner of Thornydale and Cortaro Farms roads.
The dining room’s décor looks like the stereotypes for Italian restaurants that you’re used to: red and white checkered table cloths, dark wood furnishings, some maroon vinyl. The bar, on the other hand, looks like a cross between a ’90s martini bar with bright neon lights shining through liquor bottles and a good ol’ boys sports bar, outfitted with a several large TVs.
In terms of its drinks, you’ll find unimpressive offerings for beer, wine and cocktails throughout. The best of the cocktails came under the Arizona Distilling Co. section, which I assume was made by a distillery or distributor rep to showcase those spirits specifically and not something made by the bartending staff at the restaurant.
In any case, with online ordering and carry out dining options, you could always pick up food and pour your own drinks at home, if the food is worth it. Unfortunately, at Dominick’s, it isn’t.
The first issue is that, while the service is friendly and prompt as far as the servers seem to be able to control it, food takes far too long to get out of the kitchen. Without the distraction of a tasty beverage, that wait seems all the longer. However, you will have the house garlic knots quickly delivered to your table gratis, which are a step below those chain breadsticks we’ve all come to love.
Starting off, a host of deep fried options like fried calamari, fried cheese, fried zucchini and fried wings are on the menu. The calamari fritti ($7) offer almost no flavor in either the breading or the squid inside. When dipped in the accompanying spicy marinara, things begin to improve, until you realize you’re just eating it for the crunchy texture and not for the taste at all. Dressing drenched salads and passable soups won’t please as starters any more.
All can quickly be forgiven and forgotten with a great plate of pasta, though. At Dominick’s that plate never did come. From the bland Dominick’s homemade marinara with Dominick’s homemade meatballs and spaghettini ($11) to the abrasive Pasta Rustica ($11.50), you’ll be met with poorly cooked, dried pasta topped with uninspired sauces time and time again. The latter of those two, with its mix of capers, olives and a red pepper flake filled sauce, kind of reminded me of a dish I would have made in college with whatever jars I had in my pantry at the time. It wasn’t a bad mix of things but it was just that—a blend of premade things presented as a composed dish.
The entrée section pairs those box pastas with a big portion of meat. I am a big proponent of piccata, so seeing Dominick’s offering a chicken piccata ($14.50) on the menu was a no brainer for me. While I have been known to eat capers straight out of the jar, I wasn’t pleased with the hundred or so that topped my chicken and overpowered the white wine sauce. The lemon wedges on the side looked like they were borrowed from the bar. I wish I could say the restaurant’s pizza impressed, but with a completely burnt bottom crust and a thick layer of plasticy mozzarella, I was far from impressed, or even satisfied. I’ve often heard people complain about 12″ pizza prices as upscale downtown eateries like Reilly and Pizzeria Bianco, which is strange because Dominick’s serves the same size for similar prices at a fraction of the quality. Hey, they’re the ones that claimed “Neapolitan-style” on the menu.
If anything, Dominick’s cannoli ($2), which, according to the server, offers housemade filling in a premade shell, was a small consolation at the end of a generally flavorless meal.
Interestingly enough, each time I went to Dominick’s the restaurant was either full or beginning to fill up. People in the area seem to like the spot, maybe because of its large portions or maybe because it feels familiar. Either way, I admitted earlier to eating at Olive Garden on occasion, so who am I to judge them?
This article appears in Jan 28 – Feb 3, 2016.
It’s at Cortaro Farms and Thornydale, an area I wouldn’t approach with a ten-foot fork. The Trump worshippers in this area would rather fill themselves to bursting with dreck than drive into “town” for an authentic pizza at Reilly’s.
exactly, sabasabas!
First of all great side of town second trump sucks along with Reilly’s .. Dominicks real Italian is the best Italian food around sorry you have never had the real Italian experience .. It’s your loss
With an Olive Garden-worthy palate, you really shouldn’t be judging. Dominick’s is a local favorite for a reason: healthy portions, amazing pizza, and GREAT service–as a matter of fact, I’d rather eat “flavorless” food under the supervision of a friendly,attentive server than have “authentic” food at a trendy downtown spot where some hipster is going to turn his nose up at my because I need a high chair. Lucky for north siders like myself, Dominick’s delivers good food and a nice atmosphere.
Lol weak ass review. I’ve eaten there multiple times. The only pizza that is better is Grimaldis. The garlic knots are as good as Brooklyns. The fried zucchini is the best I’ve had anywhere in town. Go back to Olive Garden. Dominicks doesn’t need you.
Are your taste buds so skewed by olive garden that you do not know what real Italian food tastes like? Sounds like you are on the payroll of olive garden, a chain restaurant with so so food. I have been to Dominick’s at least 20 times and they have the best Italian food in tucson, great portions, fresh ingredients(maybe that’s why you do not have any idea what real Italian food is supposed to taste like), excellent pizza, soups and desserts, specially the cheesecakes and tiramsu. If you need to drink while waiting for excellent food and expect a small family restaurant to have major selections of beer and wine, find another place as you do not deserve to be a customer of Dominick’s. I have never in all my visits there heard one person complain about the quality, taste and selection of the food or desserts. Whoever you are stay away from this home style good Italian food restaurant, they do not need people like you. The repeat customers will also agree it’s the best in tucson.
Ive had the pleasure of working for Ted and Sharon at dominicks, this review saddens me because of the hard work they put in to taking care of every single guest they can…the sheer volume may prevent them from time to time but they genuinely want to fix any and all complaints, i have always loved the classic feel in a hipster driven world. There is a place for people who want a break from all the over the top trends within their menu…they have never claimed to be 5 star but i can stand by their fresh and consistent delicious food..most will agree. In the end, they are great people..if you wanna give your money to corporate america feel free, they will welcome you back anytime with arms wide open.
I just can’t imagine who gave the job of food critic to Heather. Dominicks may not be upscale Italian food but it certainly is a decent Italian experience. It’s family friendly, nice sized portions and a perfect spot for the average dem or republican to go with their family and enjoy good food at decent prices. I totally disagree with your opinion of the pizza. Their crust is the best in town and every combination of toppings always delights. Salads are basic, but good and the pasta dishes are always fresh and tasty. I agree with the others, go back to Olive Garden. Seems like you need to stick ti reviewing chains and stop trying to hurt the small business owners trying to make a living!
mrbigot ummm mrbigshot, you should e ashamed of yourself. please stay in Marana and don’t think.
Speaking as an eastcoast expat who has made an effort to try each and every local pizza joint in this town in the search for an acceptable pie, I advise you to discount this reviewer’s opinion and try the pizza for yourself. It is usually wicked good.
For a food critic who thinks Olive Garden is real Italian food isn’t a real food critic, just a journalist major who can’t find a real job. You obviously know nothing about the culinary world so try finding a new job sweety. I’ve been to Dominicks on numerous occasions and their food is delicious. You obviously have it out for them or something. Food critics in tucson are a joke!
As a resident of this area (I live across from the omni) I resent sabasabas’s comnent about that side of town. I am a bernie loving liberal that grew up on this side of town. If you want trump lovers, go to oro valley.Sabasabas you might want to remove that 10foot pole from you colon along with your head. As far as this hack review goes, you can place it where you removed the 10 foot pole from. While my experiences from Dominick’s has ranged from good to terrible, I try to remember that it is a small business that has its good and bad days….just like every other place in tucson. As I am from a large metropolitan city originally, I find it comical that citizens of this one horse town look down on other citizens of the same one horse town.SMH.
I drive from the Far East side of town to specifically eat at Dominicks. Always had the best food. Pasta, pizza and salads either dressed appropriately or dressing on the side. This place has quality food and terrific service
The reviews of this place say it all. Look at yelp!! It’s a wonderful place with great food. Obviously this person either has sour connections to the people working there or just a sour attitude in general.
i am always amused when people who don’t agree with the review accuse the reviewer of a ‘sour connection to the people” or they “have it out for them”. Nothing could be further from the truth,, In my experience the responses are from people who are friends and family or have been asked by the owners to write a response.
I live in the area and frequent Dominick’s. No relation to the owners, not even friends. But love the food! Meatballs and spaghetti …wonderful. Fried eggplant …wonderful.
I’ve never eaten there, but what I find curious is …Why does the reviewer continue to dine at Dominicks if she thinks it’s the worst place for Italian food ?? If I have ever had an awful food experience at a restaurant, I NEVER return.
duh, Marty, that’s her job. Mymoney is that she only ate there twice,
We’ve been going to Dominic’s for years. We love the lunch special and the dinners have never left us grumbling. ( We don’t care for Olive Garden. Tastes too much of Chef Boy-ar-dee. ) To each their own. I am just gob smacked at how such a lovely place got slagged. Pity. Dominic’s is a grand place.
Super review. I have a new found respect for HH. Finally someone who can call a pot black. The poverty stricken neighbors who have never had a decent meal out in their lives defend this place simply because they don’t know better.
There are new restaurants opening all over the valley. I can’t even keep up with the changes. Could you start a monthly update and show new name and new address, even if you don’t have time to do a review on them??
Lasagna and More is opening March 1 on the NE. Great marinara!!!
It’s been ages since I’ve had a meal at any fast-food restaurant, and nothing I’ve read here will change my mind.
Tomorrow afternoon, I’ll be heading off to my kitchen to make up one my fabulous spaghetti-with-meatball dinners.
At a tenth of the cost that fast-food restaurants charge.
Plus 200% more delicious!
Guaranteed.
RioRican, Fast food restaurants aren’t even mentioned.
Thanks, Rita. Obviously, I mis-read Dominicks as Domino.
Blushing here.
Dominick’s menu and execution is fantastic. This coming from an Italian who’s lived in many big cities (since that seems to be a necessary credential in this debate).
Everyone is entitled to their opinion but let’s perhaps stay on topic shall we? No need to slander the neighborhood.
I live in the area and I really wanted to like Dominicks. I’ve been 3 times. The food is not terrible by any means, but it’s not remarkable at all. It is not homey, not particularly authentic… but I know it’s still a new place and could be having growing pains. I’m not Italian, but I respect the cuisine and appreciate it when it’s done right.
This is quite a caustic and bitter review. Studded with the frustration “I think” of someone who neither can cook, create nor start a small business from scratch. This is not a New York Times review so I say get over yourself you can write a net negative review without being an ass to your neighbor and community. Someone mentioned Reilly’s yes great stuff but there is plenty of room for many restaurants in many niches, locations and categories in metro Tucson and we are all the richer for it. I have eaten the pizza here several times and being from Philly I really know my pizza its good the staff really tries and Dominick’s is a popular crowded neighborhood spot. So with all due respect Heather Hoch get over yourself.
WOW couldn’t disagree more! I can only speak to Dominick’s pizza because it’s the best , in fact it’s so good that I have not tried anything else because when I even get close to Dominick’s I crave their pizza. I have refereed ton of people there and EVERYONE loves all the food on the menu.
I highly recommend Dominick’s to anyone and will stand behind my claim of the best pizza!