When a restaurant makes the kind of big move that Tavolino recently accomplished, one wonders: “Why mess with a practically perfect situation? Why risk it all?”
Maybe it’s like Edmund Hillary and that famous mountain: “Because it’s there.”
Tavolino in its original setting was tiny and intimate (tavolino means “small table”), and that was part of its charm. The new building—which previously housed VinTabla—is huge by comparison; the patio alone must seat more than the old site. And yet somehow, it all works.
The new space has high ceilings, and is open and curvy. Huge windows allow for plenty of light during the day. Chic lighting, a friendly bar area and that amazing patio add to the modern vibe. A semi-open kitchen adds another hip touch. Some of the cozy touches—such as large framed family photos that were an integral part of the old Tavolino—have been retained. The use of the space is a vast improvement from its VinTabla days; that restaurant was a bit stuffy in its modern elegance. (Another plus: There’s a decent-sized, yet unobtrusive sign on the outside of the building, making Tavolino easier to find than VinTabla ever was.)
But a restaurant isn’t all about décor or signs; it’s about the food. And thankfully, although the vibe has changed considerably, the food hasn’t: Chef Massimo Tenino and crew are still offering some of the best Italian food in town.
We began lunch simply with minestrone soup ($5) and a favorite, the Caprese salad ($7). The soup had all of the typical vegetables and a nice peppery kick; it could be a meal by itself with a slice or two of the focaccia bread that comes to the table warm (with olive oil for dipping).
The Caprese salad was art on a plate—and art to the palate. Bright-red tomato slices were served with fresh mozzarella, salty olives and a smattering of greens. Drizzled with a light olive-oil-based dressing, the dish was light and lovely.
We followed that with the pizza salsiccia ($10) and the panino vegetariano ($7). The pizza was the perfect size for one person. Homemade sausage melded perfectly with the tomato sauce, caramelized onions and mushrooms that had been cooked down to a savory goodness. (Pizza is only found on the lunch menu.)
The panino held a nice mix of grilled veggies: savory eggplant, portobello mushrooms and silky, sweet red peppers—all topped with a slice or two of provolone and a bit of a light herb salsa verde. Served on focaccia, the combo was so Italian and so fresh.
We finished off lunch with the house bonet ($7), which has to be one of the best chocolate desserts on the planet; it was a perfect ending. It’s not quite mousse, and not quite custard, but the chocolate seems to go on and on.
The dinner menu is small—shades of the old Tavolino—but well-balanced. We opted for the polipo alla griglia (grilled octopus, $12.75) and the panzanella salad ($10.75) to start.
The octopus—bits and tentacles—had a great char. It was a perfect appetizer portion, but I could’ve eaten more. The salad, like the Caprese at lunch, was artfully presented. Here, the tomatoes were chopped and then tossed atop toasted mini-rounds of bread, some greens and a light dressing.
For entrées, we ordered the tagliatelle alla Bolognese ($16.75), and I couldn’t pass up the evening’s special, pappardelle with lamb ragu ($19.75).
Both pastas included meat-based red sauces, but those sauces differed in several ways, as did the pastas. The Bolognese consisted of nice ribbons of pasta dressed in a rich meaty sauce; it was the definition of this classic dish. Any leftover sauce was sopped up with the focaccia.
The pappardelle with lamb was truly a treat. The savory sauce—a little darker in color than the Bolognese—was also deeper in flavor. The pasta was so thin and tender that it practically melted in the mouth.
We finished with the tiramisu ($7). This is what this dish is supposed to be: layers of flavors and textures, not too sweet and very grown-up.
Service on both visits was smooth and knowledgeable, with lots of smiles; servers were there when you needed them, without hovering. The staff seemed genuinely happy to be working there.
I confess that I was concerned when I heard about Tavolino’s big move. Just the fact that they’d be putting out so many more plates every evening made me wonder if it was possible for them to maintain the quality I loved about this place. But now, I am relieved: Tavolino continues to be one of Tucson’s best Italian restaurants.
This article appears in Aug 12-18, 2010.
Apparently the reviewer was not seated near the “hip” open kitchen, or she might have noticed the smoke blowing into the dining area. And perhaps she would have heard the clatter of pots and pans and the crash of dropped dishes. Though the place is so noisy to begin with that the noise from the kitchen fits right in.
Tavolino has become another “hip” restaurant designed to be as noisy as possible to lure twenty-somethings to its bar, where they suck down $15 designer martinis and pick each other up. If that’s your thing, you won’t be disappointed.
If, however, you are looking for a sophisticated dining experience worthy of the high prices, you will not be satisfied.
Ambiance aside, the food was nothing to get excited about. I had the soup for a first course, though I might have ordered the melon with Proscuitto if it hadn’t been $12.75. I am willing to pay reasonable prices for fine dining; that was not reasonable.
The soup, which happened to be tomato that day, was delicious, and unlike so much restaurant soup, was not overly salty. It was also piping hot, another relative rarity.
My husband had the Insalata Tavolino. There was nothing special about it, and it was hardly a work of “art.”
He had the lasagna for a main course. The sauce was a bit mild, heavily laced with cream that blunted the tomatoes’ acidity. Children would love it, but grown-ups might prefer a bit more flavor.
I had the chicken that promised to be “marinated in lime juice and fresh herbs,” but if it was, I couldn’t taste it. Then again, all that smoke from the kitchen was wrecking havoc with my nose.
A few more words about the menu… the salmon is farmed, not wild, and it certainly can’t compare to the luscious Scottish salmon served at Acacia. The beef used in the Tagliata di Manzo is flank steak, not the more tender and expensive rib eye or strip steak that is typically used in this classic recipe.
It’s not clear to me why the Weekly fails to address the wine list, which to us is certainly an integral part of a fine dining experience. So I’ll add my two cents about the one at Tavolino. It has many fine offerings running from about $50 a bottle to more than twice that. But it is not well-rounded, as it lacks a decent selection of more modestly priced bottles. There is no excuse for this. Competitor Vivace offers a wide selection of wines priced well below $34, the least expensive bottles on Tavolino’s list.
We didn’t order desert, because by the time we finished our main courses, we were through with the place.
I am inclined to believe PickyPalate rather than the TW reviewer. Very disappointed to read the previous Tavolino did not survive the move to the new Tavolino location. I have had many pleasing, peaceful meals at the old location.
Because I live within a mile of the new location I will give it one try, but I am glad the commenting reader has warned us. If the place is as noisy and unpleasant and for the 20 something loud crowd, I will just walk in and walk out. Dining is not done in a noisy place trying to be “hip.”
PickyPalate: “Dessert” is spelled with a double S.
The dining room may be busy, however Tavolino is a local business staying very busy not only in the summer in Tucson, but in a struggling economy. Not to mention, the food is still delicious, with many great new additions. Bravo to Massimo for the move. He still brings the class and charm he is known for to this new location. Tavolino is still my favorite restaurant in town.
Thanks hipgirl, you’ve made my case!
Dined for the first time at the new Tavolino last week. Didn’t recognize any of the servers or see the owners. Did not feel at home as I did in the old place. Something is amiss.
We had the dinner special chicken with creamy polenta and spinach, $20. I felt a bit “lost” in the atmosphere. The service was fine, the food was good, but the place felt remote. Washed out perhaps? Glad they moved within a mile of where I have a house at La Paloma and I had planned to dine there frequently, now maybe not so often. I noticed the hostess on the phone appeared to be filling take out orders and I think I will take out next time, my home is close by and cozy and I will be more comfortable at home with their good food and my more reasonably priced wine.