Home Cookin’

Like all good neighborhood diners, the two Jethro’s Little
Cafés have developed loyal followings. People really like
diners, those iconic American institutions, thanks to friendly service,
decent prices and reliable food.

But Jethro’s offers a little more. The folks here make most items
from scratch, and it shows. Plus, the portions, as expected from a
place named Jethro’s, are more than generous. (Remember Jethro’s
immense bowls of whatever Granny was serving on The Beverly
Hillbillies? Although in this case, Jethro is the alter ego of
owner Greg Seader.)

John and I roused ourselves one Saturday morning to make the trek
across town to the eastside Jethro’s for breakfast. We found the place
bustling, but thanks to a nicely shaded patio, a table was easy to
find.

In a nod to the hillbilly theme, a large, hand-painted mural
dominates the room. On it are a handful of country folk, some critters,
a wooden shack and even a saguaro or two—and both sites have the
same mural. A few Southern cooking items are also on display;
thankfully, the whole hillbilly theme isn’t overdone.

Breakfast-menu items include sides of chorizo ($3.29) and avocados
(75 cents), and there’s a malted Belgian waffle ($3.99) which I’ve been
told is darned good. The same can be said for lunch, with a
grilled-chicken-salad sandwich ($7.29) and a chili cheese dog with
fries ($6.49) as examples.

Coffee ($1.79) was at our table in a flash, thanks to our charming
young server. It was hot and steamy—just the thing I needed to
knock the cobwebs out of my head. John ordered scrambled eggs and bacon
with crispy hash browns and rye toast ($5.49). He also ordered a large
orange juice ($2.49). My choice was the three-egg cheese omelet with
grits and a toasted English muffin ($5.49).

I’m not saying that our morning meals knocked our socks off; I mean,
how different can scrambled eggs be? But the difference here is the
quality of ingredients and the obvious care in preparation. This no
slap-dash greasy-spoon stuff—not in the least.

The eggs in both dishes were fresh and fluffy. The bacon on John’s
plate was perfect: cooked to a nice crisp and not overly greasy. Bacon,
one of the most wonderful foods on Earth, is often abused and misused.
Jethro does neither. The same could be said about the potatoes, which
were done just right.

I loved the creamy grits, even though I committed a grievous error
by adding sugar and butter rather than asking for more cheese. The
omelet stood an inch high, with oodles of American cheese both inside
and out.

Neither of us finished our meals, because there was just so much
food. I can’t say that about most of the other patrons, who seemed to
be members in long standing of the Clean Plate Club.

A few days later, we ate lunch at the westside location. Again, we
found the portions—even the sodas—to be humongous.

Although we ordered traditional items, they included a few fancy
surprises, such as the yummy carrots and garlic smashed potatoes that
came with John’s hot roast-beef sandwich ($7.49). The carrot slices
came with walnuts and were dressed in a maple glaze. The potatoes were
redolent with garlic, with their skins mixed in.

The sandwich itself might’ve benefited from more of the savory
gravy, but the beef had been slightly grilled, which added another
layer of flavor. These are preparations that don’t come from a can or a
mix—they come from a higher-thinking cook.

I ordered a personal favorite: the pork tenderloin with fries
($7.49). This was the quintessential pork tenderloin sandwich, one of
the best I’ve ever had. The inch-thick loin spilled over the edges of
the French-style sandwich roll, revealing the nooks and crannies of a
perfectly fried batter. All of this was topped with a tomato and
chopped lettuce that had been tossed with mayo, which added a nice
little tang. The fries were sizzling-hot and crunchy.

Yes, Jethro’s is a diner, but to put it in that category alone would
be misleading. However, Jethro’s is not an “upscale” diner, where old
favorites are turned into food no granny would recognize. Jethro’s is a
perfect blend of old-style eats and a modern sensibility, a place where
hungry folks and those who appreciate quality over quantity can find a
common bond.

I look forward to a return visit … very soon.

This article appears in Sep 10-16, 2009.