Best of Tucson 1996: Best Greek

Best Greek

Athens On 4th Avenue
500 N. Fourth Ave.

READERS' PICK: The ancient Greeks held that food and cooking be numbered among the fine arts, right up there with poetry, music and sculpture. This is the philosophic bent of Athens On 4th Avenue, where the various dishes are prepared and served with such attention to detail, dining there is like visiting a gallery of food. Athens uses only the freshest ingredients and creates Greek food alive with vivid tastes and textures. The spanokopita, or spinach pie, is a prime example: A common item around town, few places manage to combine crisp, golden phyllo with the creamy spinach and feta filling the way Athens does, with just a nip of finely chopped onion and a dash of fresh dill. It puts the soggy, mundane versions you've sampled elsewhere to shame. Lamb dishes such as souvlaki and gyro use tender strips of meat redolent with garlic, fresh mint and olive oil. Folded in pita bread and drizzled with yogurt sauce, these are dishes to satisfy even the most demanding of tastes. And don't forget the baklava--a nutty, honey-sweet spot. Like everything else at Athens On 4th, it's out of this world.

READERS' POLL RUNNER-UP: Olive Tree Restaurant, 7000 E. Tanque Verde Road.

STAFF PICK: Unassuming, in an easy-to-miss location (3234 E. Speedway), Fronimo's Gyros and Burgers deserves applause for serving up some of the best fast food in town. A counter service storefront in that Pepto-pink strip mall on East Speedway, the atmosphere is simple but notable for being extraordinarily immaculate. Choose from the traditional Gyro or an American-style steak sandwich; or opt for a platter of spicy Athenian Chicken, prepared with lemon, oregano and garlic, with a salad and grilled pita. Favorite Greek specialties including falafel, souvlaki, spanakopita, tyropita and dolmades are all prepared expertly--and quickly--by Fronimo's kitchen. There's plenty for the veggie crowd to pick over, as well. The hummus is particularly outstanding.