The Restored Hacienda Del Sol Resort Is Stunning, And So Is The Food. By Rebecca Cook LONG BEFORE DELUXE resorts with professional tour-caliber golf courses were built, people traveled to Tucson to stay at guest ranches, where they could get a taste of the Old West. Horse trails rather than fairways peppered the Catalina foothills, and the closest thing to regional cuisine was a small dish of jalapeños, a plate of pinto beans and, maybe, a few tortillas. Red meat and barbecue reigned supreme. If you were planning a trip to Tucson in the 1940s and '50s, you'd likely have considered a stay at Hacienda del Sol. Then at its peak, the ranch was a favorite of many Cleveland Indians ballplayers and sportswriters, as well as several Hollywood celebrities (among them Spencer Tracy, Clark Gable and Joseph Cotton). Perched on the south slope of what is now La Paloma Resort, the Josias Joesler-designed Hacienda del Sol epitomized the gracious, pristine Southwestern experience. Unfortunately, the place deteriorated over the years until not much of its former splendor remained. Talk of parceling the 32-acre ranch into a new housing sub-division began to circulate and, once again, it seemed inevitable that yet another piece of Tucson history would fall into the maw of "progress." But a few visionaries with loads of disposable income saved the day. In 1993, the property was purchased with intent to restore it to its former glory. Although these owners weren't able to complete the plan, another buyer came along a few years later and enthusiastically picked up where they left off. Millions of dollars and a major facelift later, Hacienda del Sol is back in business. Small and incredibly intimate by modern resort standards, this guest ranch consists of only about 40 rooms, including individual, adobe casitas. The site is also available for receptions and weddings; and, most critical to our purposes, the dining room is now open to the public. The owners have spared no expense in opening a restaurant of surpassing quality amidst an atmosphere of unparalleled Southwestern charm. Chef Albert Hall, formerly of the prestigious Phoenician Resort, has crafted a menu of singular distinction. There's nothing mundane or typical here. Even a simple salad of mixed field greens is enlivened by the addition of a spry lemon vinaigrette and wedges of juicy tomatoes, the latter rubbed with kosher salt and sugar, gently roasted, then peeled and seeded. The perfectly ripe, just-out-of-the-garden burst of flavor that results from such nuances is phenomenal. An appetizer of roasted garlic, ground hazelnut and chevre tart with a subtly sweet Anjou pear vinaigrette was a luscious beginning to our meal. A gentle custard nestled within flaky folds of phyllo pastry crust, topped off with a sautéed pear half, and then lightly drizzled with the delicate vinaigrette. This tasty hors d'oeuvre, accompanied perhaps by a small salad, would probably suffice if one possessed a dainty little appetite; alas, we're not a light-eating bunch. Our hearty appetites thoroughly whetted by these impressive beginnings, we lustily forged ahead to the main course: Cioppino and an intoxicating mesh of fresh lobster, sea scallops, prawns, clams, mussels and ahi tuna swim invitingly in a piquant tomato-chipotle broth, alongside chopped tomatoes, onions, a smattering of white crèma cheese, and a splash of Dry Jack. This dynamite fish stew is crowned with a nest of crisp, blue-corn tortilla strips and a sizzling hot serrano chile pepper, clear evidence that we had indeed left the San Francisco Bay and returned to the desert high country. While probably too fiery for more timid palates, this dish absolutely delighted my habanero-addicted companion, who happily soaked up the remaining broth with slices of scrumptious cracked pepper and asiago sourdough bread. Although the evening contained barely a hint of a chill, I opted for the more autumnal fare of roast loin of pork with an apricot, honey-mustard glaze. Served with an award-winning supporting cast of braised red cabbage, sautéed parsnip, Yukon-gold potato cakes, spaghetti squash, whole baby carrot and steamed kale, this dish was a glorious nod to the seasonal equinox: tender, moist pork, a balanced and zesty glaze, and a full harvest of tender vegetables. Dessert, thankfully, has been given thoughtful consideration, with items ranging from a modest fruit-and-cheese platter to a sinful white- and dark-chocolate cake. This rather large and dense version of a petit four is accompanied by a trio of strawberry, lemon and mango sorbets, and served along with roasted bananas, candied pineapple and almond dacquoise--an unusual variety of tastes and textures. The wine list, while in no way extensive, was nonetheless admirable for its depth and its attention to wines produced by some of the smaller vintners. The service was obliging and attentive, and the open-kitchen effect--along with an inviting expanse of Saltillo tile and high, wood-beamed ceilings--created an utterly amicable ambiance. The only foreboding note on Hacienda del Sol's otherwise stellar performance might be Sunday brunch: Costing $19.95 per person, options range from a vegetarian treatment of eggs Benedict to an English cut of standing rib-roast. A meager assortment of fresh breads, fresh-squeezed orange juice, sliced melon and strawberries, petite portions of pastry, coffee and tea are included, although we found we had to gently nudge our server into providing these amenities. As it was, our juice never did arrive, and the coffee cups were allowed to go empty and cold time and again. There were interminable intervals between each course, and I won't elaborate on the 30 minutes it took to get the check so we could settle up and be on our way. Tsk, tsk. But in the evening, you won't find many rivals to equal the experience at the Grill at Hacienda del Sol. History, grace, elegance, style and exceptional dinner fare put this Tucson landmark solidly back on the map. The Grill at Hacienda del Sol. 5601 N. Hacienda del Sol Road. 529-3500. Open nightly from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., and from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for Sunday brunch. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, DC, checks. Menu items: $6.50-$25.00. Sunday brunch: $19.95/adults, $12/children.

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