Tucson Weekly: Twin Peak (April 1

The Best News Of Successful Cloning Is A New Gavi, Now Open In The Foothills Mall.
By Rebecca Cook
MY FIRST FORAY into the wild and wacky world of restaurant reviewing was more than three years ago, when I decided to follow a lead about an outstanding Italian affair located unprepossessingly in a strip mall on the far east side of town.
Wedged between the pizza and cinnamon-bun trade, and with an endless stream of bodies spilling out the front door to eagerly await a table (no reservations for parties with less than six people), Gavi initially discouraged hopes for a stellar dining experience.
Chow But great things indeed can arrive in small (and rather quaint) packages. The remarkable quality of Gavi's food, the friendly and amazingly efficient service, and the general bustle and energy of the place more than compensated for a dreary stroll around a supermarket parking lot while we placed bets on our own shot at a table.
The meal was superb, the article a cinch to write, and I began to think this reviewing stuff was a piece of cake. Needless to say, the job has turned out to have its fair share of challenges, not the least of which was finding as many restaurants able to match Gavi's excellence in both taste and value. Occasional disappointments are inevitable.
Now comes Gavi II, the sequel. Located in the up-and-coming Foothills Mall (that collection of shops considered dead and buried just a few short years ago), this new Gavi has very big shoes to fill. Can this latest venture live up to the high expectations engendered by the virtuoso East Broadway bistro? Or will this be yet another tepid reproduction of a previously wonderful thing?
The verdict is in: The newest Gavi on the block is every bit as bold, brassy and bona fide delicious as its distinguished predecessor. In tribute to the rare combination of ingredients that made his first business so successful, owner Gaetano (Gavi) Colaleo has hardly changed a thing at the Foothills Mall location.
Taking over about a third of the space formerly occupied by Casa Molina, Gavi II remains a relatively small operation of about 70 seats inside, and approximately 30 outside on a tented patio. Colorful soccer jerseys and bright flags again accentuate the interior walls, and the overall color scheme is the same lush, two-toned green. The menu is identical, as is the ban on reservations for parties of less than six.
Stepping under the green awning and entering the front door, there was no mistaking this new place for anything but a Gavi production. The only question remaining was the food itself.
One's impression of an Italian restaurant is frequently formed upon entering an establishment: The simmering bouquets of tomatoes, garlic, onions and fresh herbs such as basil and oregano tantalize the senses and tease the appetite. Gavi II provided just such a moment of pause, the scents emanating from the open kitchen so incomparably luscious you'll want to rub your hands together in gleeful expectation. No sooner did we take our seats than a basket of hot, crispy rolls arrived, accompanied by a complimentary platter of farfalle (bow-tie) pasta tossed with fresh basil vinaigrette and marinated red and green bell pepper strips.
If possible, resist the urge to devour every morsel in sight. Gavi II has the same substantial menu filled with entrees that redefine the term "generous." Discretionary nibbling at the outset will go far in allowing you to enjoy the full panorama of tastes to come.
In addition to the regular selection of pasta, veal, chicken, pork and seafood offerings, we were asked to consider the many specials featured that evening. If I have one complaint about Gavi, it's that they need to have these specials written out. It's one thing when there's only one or two, but when the total tops out somewhere around 10, it's time to jot things down. No sooner do you swoon over one delicacy than the waitress begins elaborating on another. So many choices, so little time.
Finally, we settled on cannelloni with ground veal and pork in a creamed marinara sauce (a nightly special at $16.95), eggplant parmesan ($10.95) and beef ravioli served in red sauce ($5.50), the latter ordered from Gavi's impressive children's menu. Dinners are served with a choice of soup (which changes daily) or salad. Turning down a tempting corn chowder, we chose instead to sample the mixed greens with tomato, red onion, cucumber and carrot curls drizzled with a creamy Italian house dressing. Although fairly ordinary in its particulars, the salad was nevertheless fresh and tasty. We especially enjoyed the dressing, which was impishly peppered and herbed, imparting a savory suggestion of Dijon mustard.
Another hallmark of the Gavi experience is that the food is served
H-O-T, bubbling and steaming as testament that it's been taken directly from the oven or frying pan to your table. In this regard, Gavi II provides blessed relief from the number of lukewarm meals we've been served of late. The cannelloni, topped with golden, melted cheese and surrounded by Gavi's "rosa" sauce of cream and tomato-rich marinara, was still sizzling when it arrived at the table, its two ample crepes delicately stuffed with ricotta cheese and a conservative blend of ground veal and pork. Too much meat would have overpowered the dish, while too little would have elicited complaints of stinginess. But Gavi finds a gentle balance that absolutely melts in your mouth; and the sauce itself is a singular marvel of sweet, sassy and creamy flavors. Though distinctly rich, it was nevertheless a deeply and deliciously satisfying dish.
The eggplant parmesan was equally splendid, consisting of tender, quarter-inch rounds of eggplant lightly breaded and baked with a blanket of molten cheese. Its puréed tomato sauce is deftly accented with loads of garlic, cracked pepper, oregano, basil and finely minced onion. My vegetarian companion, who's eaten this same dish in several venues over the years, gave Gavi's version an 8 on a 1-to-10 scale--deservedly high praise.
The grand winner at the table, however, was the beef ravioli, the preferred entrée du jour for the discerning 8-year-old in our party. (Other children's menu choices include spaghettini marinara with meatball, cheese tortellini with red or white sauce, fettucine alfredo, spinach or meat lasagna and cheese ravioli, each priced at $5.50.) Seven two-by-two inch pillows of pasta stuffed heartily with ground beef came swimming in a wonderful fresh tomato sauce, subtly spiced in deference to a child's tender taste buds. Given that this particular young man--who normally eats with the gusto of a sparrow--hadn't stopped eating since we sat down (the farfalle, hot rolls with butter and half my salad already having disappeared at his corner of the table), I calculated serious take-home potential.
Boy, was I wrong. He finished the last bite with a smack, wiped the tomato sauce from behind his ears, and announced he wanted to celebrate his next birthday at this place. The kid has taste.
Though stuffed, a meal this good compelled us to try at least one dessert. We passed around forks for an order of tiramisu ($4.75), so everyone could have a wee bite. Again, we underestimated the capacity of our young companion, which in regards to Gavi seemed insatiable. Cake-like and with identifiable layers of espresso-soaked ladyfingers, mascarpone cheese, chocolate and whipped cream, this tiramisu hit just the right spot, placating our sweet tooth without lapsing into excess. The barely bitter espresso, semi-sweet chocolate and creamy mascarpone admirably tempered the sugary nature of the dish, over half of which was soon devoured by the budding epicure.
Miraculously, Gavi II manages to achieve par excellence with its sibling. How Colaleo pulls off such a coup is a happy mystery. Northwest residents, rejoice!
Gavi Italian Restaurant. Two locations: 7865 E. Broadway Blvd., No. 165. (290-8380), and Foothills Mall, 7401 N. La Cholla Blvd., No. 146 (219-9200). Open 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Wine and beer. Major credit cards accepted, but no checks. Menu items: $5.50-$18.95.

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