READERS' PICK: If you're looking for a classic-rock statement of nouvelle Southwestern cuisine, this is it. The food here never goes out of style or lacks for taste. Owner Janos Wilder and his band of gypsies did better than simply surviving the trek from downtown to the foothills, they've thrived. So has the food. Special note should be given to the on-premises upscale J Bar, where you can get your groove on as part of a serious nightclubbing regimen.