Jerks may come and go in real life, on the ballot and at the cinema, but none with such degrading lasciviousness as Mickey Rourke in 9 1/2 Weeks. But enough perversion; we prefer our jerk on a plate where it belongs, reminding us of those lazy days strolling the pork pits along the tropical shores of Jamaica's Montego Bay. But this is the desert, where the closest thing we get to tropical is an infrequent monsoon or a coconut paleta. Luckily, J Bar captures the culinary atmosphere with Janos Wilder's slow-cooked meat that resonates with spiciness, the basis of a platillo of jerked pork served with cranberry habanero chutney, cilantro chili slaw, black beans, poblano crema and tortillas. Do the jerk, mon.