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A traditional Thai massage starts with a fragrant sauna, and then you lie fully clothed on a mat while a practitioner (most likely named Jason) stretches and bends and folds and unfolds you for an hour or two, or even longer. A warm ginger beverage concludes the treatment, after which you stumble out onto Fourth Avenue—where a glimpse of the plasma-donation facility reorients you to your surroundings. No matter: Bendy and relaxed and redolent with incense, you can face anything.