When word got out that the old Boondocks Lounge on North First Avenue was closing, the collective cries from longtime Tucson residents squealed: “No! What’s going to happen to that crazy big chianti bottle?”
Then, when the Boondocks finally did shut down in late 2016, there was another aggregate wail of remorse: “No! Now where are we going to get our five-dollar meatloaf every Monday and hear local blues rock bands?”
Just down a ways, a salty hidden saloon sharing a space with a fish ‘n’ chips eatery and a 24-hour laundromat was hatching a plan. Nancy’s Ft. Lowell Pub has been a neighborhood staple for honest drinks and a break from the student-dominated bars since 2001, and they were casting their eyes on the now-unused space of the Boondocks. When the timing was just right, Nancy’s shut their doors and moved into the old Boondocks space, combining the two forces to become Nancy’s Boondocks.
The old Nancy’s is now in the hands of a new owner who has completely done away with the former feel and look of the place. But the Boondocks? Yeah, the Kuhlman family, who own Nancy’s Boondocks, knew that if they changed too much of the longstanding beloved bar, there would be a midtown meltdown of sorts. You just can’t mess with tradition, so the general ambiance of the Boondocks remains and, of course, they didn’t touch that oversized wine bottle out front.
If you recall, the Boondocks served food. Like, pretty good and honest pub-grub kind of food. When Nancy took over, with her daughters Jodie and April managing affairs and sometimes bartending, their first inclination was to serve food as well. But, according to them, the kitchen needed, say, “a little work.”
It took several months to rebuild, zone and sterilize, but Nancy’s Boondocks is now serving food from a kitchen that is almost unrecognizable. Trust me, I’ve been in the old Boondocks cooking space, and, uh, let me just tell you the difference of how it is in its present state is beyond night and day. More like 17th-century methods of dentistry versus what we got going for us in these modern times. It is immaculate, expanded and—best of all—up and running again.
Now, the Kuhlman’s just didn’t want to put out your basic bar fare to appease those waist-deep in Jell-O shots and needing something to soak up the hooch. Happily, I am here to say the food is even better than before. The few times that I have popped in and sampled something, it has always been solid and delicious. For $6.50, you get a huge half-pound Angus beef burger that will totally mess you up, juices dripping down your arm, and that is exactly what I want from a local pub with a menu. Sure, it’s a buck more to add on crispy fries or a tart house slaw, but who cares? It is generous and goes perfectly with a local beer on tap or a cocktail. A real cocktail. Not some downtown jigger measured sugary wallet lightener; an honest-to-goodness drink.
Leaannz Chicken Club ($8.50), lovingly named after bartender Leann, takes a different approach by adding sautéed mushrooms and mozzarella along with smoky bacon and avocado. At first, I didn’t think that combo would work but it haphazardly does and has become a personal favorite. The Patti’s Melt ($7.95), which gets its handle from longtime employee and Elvis fan Miss Patti, is a quarter pound of beef paired with grilled onions and Swiss cheese on marbled rye bread, which is then finished on the griddle. Nancy’s Boondocks isn’t going to change the global culinary infrastructure, but when you are craving one of the best and biggest patty melts in Tucson, you are straight-up glad that they are here.
Honestly, I was just happy to have the Boondocks back, now in the hands of ladies who owned a bar I used to frequent because of its “always a show, never a cover” vibe, but the situation has gotten even better because Nancy’s now serves breakfast. At $6.95, the breakfast burrito filled me up and invited me to go right back to bed due to its generous helping of eggs, potatoes and choice of meat. But can we get serious for a moment? They have a breakfast chicken and waffles plate paired with eggs. Sure, it was early, but I needed a reflective drink after that bit of tasty salvation. In fact, all the delicious grub served here just might invite you to have one as well. Perhaps two. ■
This article appears in Jan 18-24, 2018.
Why would anyone still order a patty melt? No one can claim to be ignorant of the horrendous treatment of cows in dairies after all of the videos taken by undercover investigators have surfaced. Every one reveals atrocities that can’t be justified by simply saying, “cheese tastes good.”
Do everybody a favor and go chew on a cactus.
Wow, what a low blow to the previous owners who devoted over 20 years of their lives to promoting live music, great customer service, super good food & lots of love & dedication to all of their customers & employees! How rude Mark!
You couldn’t write a lovely review of the new Nancy’s Boondock’s without disparaging the previous Boondock’s Lounge in the process? There really was no need for it since the article would have been very nice without those low blows. It’s as though you have a grudge against the previous Boondock’s. I think the new Nancy’s is great and I thought the old Boondock’s was great (it is still sorely missed by its devoted customers). I know that the Range Rider Grill provided good food and the kitchen always passed Pima County Health Department inspections. A 21-year-old kitchen is always going to need “a little work” such as updating kitchen appliances, the work efficiency triangle, and the creation of the new establishment’s signature menu. I’m happy for Nancy, but still cannot get over your mean spirited blow to the former Boondocks and the locals. Squealing, really?
The writer also called the Boondocks a Tucson tradition and beloved. Truth hurts dont it?
I agree to disagree with you Mark!!!! The previous owners made the Bar what it is and will become,due to the tasty & low cost food, EXCELLENT live music & great customer service!
Since the New Boondocks has hired the old Boondocks Cook,things should taste very similar to the Old Boondocks food (Patty melts etc.) Patrons may be sad but did not squeal since they’re not pig’s! I think you could of used of higher quality term describing who made the Boondocks. Without the phenomenal Customer’s who built the music venue what it became. Get facts straight before you slam on people. When purchasing a building that has sat for a year & that was grandfathered in, pretty ignorant to say sanitize Mark!!! I’ve never seen less than A+ and EXCELLENT on the wall of the old Boondocks kitchen and I’ve been going there for 20+ years, so not sure where you get your false info from? Hmmm? Maybe you should look up grandfathered & see what that means! Like any pre existing business with With having the same band’s and some food the same as the old place I’m pretty sure they will do just fine without your ugly article. We loved going into the old Boondocks & hope Nancy’s does well.
G. Dinardo, you are why nobody likes vegans.