Best Cabeza Burrito
STAFF PICK: There is no food more feared by the uninitiated then the cabeza burrito. Yes, cabeza, the head of the cow, nicely chopped and rendered, then simmered for hours in its own fat. Well, not the whole head...mostly the cheeks and some stuff from around the ears and nose. In any event, when guests are here from some wimpy part of the country like Michigan or Vermont, and it's time to test their mettle, take them out for cabeza. Our pick is Guadalajara, on Fourth Avenue and 22nd Street, both for its open kitchen where you can see the lard piled high in the pots and because it has juicy, fatty cabeza served with a side of supremely palatable refried beans and sliced radishes. Whether you enjoy it in their cramped dining room, their noisy, roadside patio, or to-go, we think it's the best cabeza this side of the border.
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