Best Fine-Dining SteakSTAFF PICK: Dry-aging of beef includes wrapping whole, bone-in loins in parchment paper, and letting cool air circulate for up to four weeks. That's the kind of New York strips Ranchers Club gets from its suppliers, Lombardi Brothers of Denver and Stockyards Packing of Chicago, which also supply the famous Morton's of Chicago steakhouse chain with its steaks. Though sedate, the Ranchers Club still evokes cattle ranching days--although this one's more for he who owns the big house on the hill. Tucson steakhouse eating took a decidedly elegant turn when the Ranchers Club opened in 1988. It boasted wood-burning grills with smoke of cherrywood, hickory and sassafras, as well as the mesquite standard. The 48-ounce Porterhouse easily serves three at dinner, and is truly a sight to behold. Even lesser cuts at lunch like the New York strip sirloin are among the best in town. The ambiance of Ranchers Club, 5151 E. Grant Road, encourages leisure. The booths are comfortable, with dark woods and red hues providing a sumptuousness no cattle baron could resist.