Tucson Weekly: Cork Board (December 24

How To Become A Connoisseur, Or Just Look Like One.
By Rebecca Cook
IT'S THAT TIME of year when glasses are lifted high and toasts for the holidays and the New Year abound. Friends and family gather to eat, drink and make merry--meaning you may be called on to contribute a fine wine for the occasion.
If you're like me, this can strike a small chord of fear in your heart. A novice to the world of wine, my knowledge has been limited to a few well-known wineries and some delicious, vintage Merlots and Cabernets I've had the good fortune to sample. What happens if my host suggests a zinfandel would be nice with dinner? Or, perhaps, an interesting white wine to go with the hors d'oeuvres? Now I need guidance.
Chow With invaluable assistance from the staff at The Rumrunner Wine & Cheese Co., I've compiled a list of wines that includes an appropriate selection for every special moment in this time of good cheer. None will set you back more than $25, and many cost far less. All come highly recommended, not only by the Rumrunner staff, but by no less an authority than Wine Spectator, which also chose many of these spirits in their listing of the year's top 100 wines.
So, be bold, be confident, and most importantly, enjoy.

White Wines

NEWTON VINEYARD 1996 Napa Valley Chardonnay $20: Napa Valley is noted for its BIG wines (big in terms of flavor, that is); and this one is no exception. Light and fruity, with just a hint of buttery oak to round it out, this wine crosses the palate a little drier than many of its Chardonnay counterparts. It's an excellent complement to fresh-grilled fish or chicken, and should even be able to parlay a meal with spicier, creamier or more exotic flavors.
Lindemans 1996 Australia Padthaway Chardonnay $13: If you can get past the faintly skunky aroma at first sniff (more sophisticated wine tasters might use "grassy" to describe that unmistakable scent), you'll find this wine from New South Wales to be fairly exciting. Sharper and cleaner than the Newton Chardonnay, Lindemans' rendition celebrates the lush flavors of sun-ripened fruit. Something about this wine begs for a fresh baguette and a round of Camembert cheese.
Caliterra 1996 Valle Central Sauvignon Blanc $7: Although Chilean wines have been heavily hyped for the last decade or so, they are just now beginning to live up to their press. In a reversal of the natural wine-world order, the newer wines in this group are actually better than the older vintages. Expect a crisp wine with plenty of bold and tangy fruit flavors. A faint hint of oak contributes an element of interest. This would be an excellent choice to accompany grilled fish, poultry or pasta tossed with a toned-down, creamy sauce.
Erath Vineyards 1996 Willamette Valley Dry Gewurztraminer $10: Since wines from the Pacific Northwest are still considered to be in their ascendancy, you can get excellent value for your dollar when you purchase wines from this region. The German word "Gewurz" means "spicy," and this is precisely what you'll find in this particular wine. Light, refreshing and containing a delicate bite, it would partner well with roast chicken, turkey or Cornish game hen.

Red Wines

LYETH 1994 California North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon $13: Intensely flavored with a velvety texture, this full-bodied and fruity cabernet more than adequately represents the genre. Perhaps as subtle as a Napa Valley Cab, it retains a slight edge, making it a pleasure all by itself. It would also make a grand match for that standing rib roast with Yorkshire pudding.
Ferrari-Carano 1995 Sonoma County Sienna $25: This wine may be at the upper limit of our promised price range, but it's worth every penny. A rich blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, this gorgeous red will slide across your tongue in silken waves of flavor. A slight smokiness and a subtle suggestion of raspberry and strawberry make this a very interesting choice indeed. Bring this to a gathering, and you'll find yourself at the pinnacle of popularity. Fine by itself or as a glorious counterpart to strongly flavored fish and meat dishes.
Beringer 1993 Knights Valley Alluvium $25: Another stretch, but one just as worthy of the expenditure. "Alluvium" is the name given by Beringer to their proprietary blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and to describe it as rich and complex is to do it bare justice. An excellent and infinitely drinkable wine, whether you're enjoying it alone or accompanied by a rack of lamb with sautéed parsnips and Caesar salad. Delicious.
Markham Vineyards 1995 Napa Valley Merlot $20: Referred to as "Cabernet Sauvignon's understudy" by many devoted Cab drinkers, Merlot has really come into its own in recent years. At times it seems its popularity among wine drinkers knows no bounds; if you'd like to accommodate their predilection, this wine would make an excellent choice. Although this plummy, black currant-laced Merlot might overwhelm more delicate dishes, it makes an ideal companion for the bold flavors of red meat or a hearty casserole.
Calera 1995 Central Coast Pinot Noir $16: The Central Coast is considered to produce some of the finest Pinot Noirs in California. This supple, big-hearted wine bursting with the flavor of ripe fruit and smoky oak provides ample validation to that claim. Dry and more subtle than some of the other red wines on this list, it would make a fine selection for almost any food; but it's rumored to be particularly well-suited to the best game dishes.
Ridge 1995 Sonoma County, Sonoma Station Zinfandel $17: Any of the rich, full-bodied Zins currently bottled by Ridge (York Creek, Geyserville and Lytton Springs to name a few) would please a collector as well as bring a smile to the lips of anyone who delights in wine with character. Sumptuous and with a deep, raisiny flavor, this wine would measure up well against a roast loin of pork with garlic and potatoes, or other more highly seasoned dishes.
Pesquera 1994 Spain Ribera del Duero $22: The Ribera del Duero reds have a longer history and more complexity than almost any other Spanish wine. Mixing luxurious, plummy fruit flavors with just a trace of smokiness, it's a giant in terms of taste. Not at its best advantage when sipped solo, this big red can more properly be savored with a plate of steaming pasta topped with a robust marinara sauce.
Montecillo 1994 Spain Vina Cumbrero Roja $10: Not all that dissimilar to the more costly wine listed above, this is another Spanish wine of distinction. Definitely more pungent and less elegant than its more affluent countryman, this red is nonetheless a fine complement to any of the possibilities listed above.

Sparkling Wine

ROEDERER ESTATE Anderson Valley Brut $16: So you've been asked to bring the bubbles for a New Year's Eve celebration, and the only vintage you know is Dom Perignon and you don't happen to have $89 bucks to blow on a single bottle of auld lang syne. Try experimenting with some of California's growing inventory of sparkling wines--this one from Roederer, in particular, offers a fine substitute for more expensive options. Dry and slightly toasty, it'll ring in the New Year with panache.

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