Tucson Is Targeted By The Big-Time Bagel Biz. By Rebecca Cook HAS ANYONE ELSE noticed the uncanny number of bagel businesses bubbling up all over town? Bagels, it seems, are "in," so much so that the chewy little breads have become a billion-dollar industry in this country. Pretty amazing when you stop to consider the average tab in a bagel-fueled restaurant is about $4.50. While independent, mom-and-pop bagel joints may have been the norm at one time--and these primarily glimpsed only along the Eastern Seaboard and the sidewalks of New York City--national chains have emerged. Bruegger's Bagel Bakery and Einste!n Bros. Bagels, two of the corporate titans in this growth industry, have extended their reach to Tucson in recent months. They seem to be doing well, but then both eateries are extraordinarily good. Of course there's far more to Bruegger's and Einste!n's than just an O-shaped hunk of bread slathered with cream cheese. Both stores have an amazing repertoire of creative, often strangely surprising, interpretations of the basic recipe from which to choose. You must return repeatedly just to sample the myriad of possibilities. Bruegger's, with three locations in Tucson, has become the regular morning stop for a wide variety of humanity on its way to the office or in desperate need of a cup of joe. Traditionally, bagels are boiled in water before being baked in the oven. This water bath is what gives the yeast roll its dense, chewy texture and a slightly crunchy and shiny crust. Bruegger's maintains this kettle-boiled and hearth-baked approach, as well as insisting on fresh ingredients untainted by the addition of oils, preservatives or artificial ingredients. Basic bagel flavors at Bruegger's are: plain, honey-grain, cinnamon-raisin, pumpernickel, poppy, sesame, salt, onion and garlic. Interesting combinations of tastes are notably enhanced with the addition of any one of several different cream cheese flavors. These include: plain, smoked salmon, chive, bacon scallion, honey walnut and garden veggie, as well as some "light" variations. Bruegger's bagels are decidedly fresh while still having the ability to exercise your jaws, just the way a good bagel is supposed to do. A baker's dozen here will cost you $4.89 with cream cheese running between $1.89 and $2.89. Bruegger's also has plenty of sandwich options and features two soups a day, one always a vegetarian offering. I tried the velvet veggie cheese soup one day. Whereas most cheese soups I've tried are too thick and congeal significantly if not consumed immediately, this tasty concoction retained a smooth consistency throughout, wrapped gracefully around tender chunks of vegetables and suffused with a pungent cheddar flavor. Einste!n's (no, the "!" is not a typo; they're just terribly enthused about their product) is an even higher notch on the bagel rave scale. If you think the selections at Bruegger's are extensive, hold on to your hats. Einste!n's assortment is dizzying. Einste!n's offers the following bagel options: plain, poppy dipped, sesame dipped, chopped onion, chopped garlic, everything, pumpernickel, chocolate chip, cinnamon raisin swirl, nutty banana, wild blueberry, honey eight-grain, sourdough dill, sunflower, spinach herb, sun-dried tomato, fruit-'n'-nut, and veggie confetti. As if that cornucopia weren't enough, Einste!n's offers some of the most amazing cream cheese spreads you've ever seen, including sun-dried tomato, very veggie, spinach dill lite, smoked salmon, cheddar & peppers, chive dive, wildberry lite, maple walnut raisin, pumpkin pie, honey walnut, and strawberry. If none of these strikes your fancy, you can also select a smooth carrot hummus to spread on your bagel. Einste!n's bagels are a little larger than those at Bruegger's and consummately fresh. The outer crusts may not be as crunchy as some other bagels, but the interiors are bursting with flavor. A baker's dozen here costs $5.45, with tubs of cream cheese running between $1.90 and $2.50. In addition, Einste!n's (which has grown exponentially in the last year thanks to a sizable convertible loan from Boston Market, Inc.) eschews a rank chain mentality and lets each store develop its own unique personality. What all of the stores have in common, however, is a commitment to be the Cheers of the bagel world, a place where friends and neighbors gather and are greeted by name. To achieve

		© 1995-97 Tucson Weekly . Info Booth