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 The Master Has Not Lost His Touch In His New Digs. By Rebecca Cook SO MUCH COPY has been dedicated to culinary wunderkind Janos Wilder over the last decade, I decided to allow some breathing room before I visited his new venture at the Westin La Paloma Resort, which opened last November. Besides, the stampede of hungry humanity into the Catalina foothills at that time was staggering. The better part of valor seemed to be to wait before proceeding with my assessment. What better time to drop by, I decided, than summer? The seasonal flock of tourists has returned to their nests, the opera and symphony have concluded their season and the locals with enough disposable income have vacated the desert to enjoy a more temperate vacation. This is the time of year when local restaurants traditionally take a sizable hit; tables once filled throughout the night remain empty for hours at a stretch. Would the new Janos, transplanted from the cozy confines of the historic Hiram Stevens house to the chic elite of the Westin La Paloma Resort, endure this same summer lassitude?
The first consideration is the new location. How could a resort ambience come close to the elegant sophistication of the former downtown digs? The saguaro rib ceilings, thick adobe walls and hardwood floors set amidst a living monument to Tucson's frontier past was thoroughly enchanting. Surely, no modern structure could compare. In fact, it doesn't. Surprisingly, however, it doesn't miss by much. The separate building situated just below the main resort entrance is a world unto itself. The entry is nothing less than stunning: plush furnishings and antique fixtures, a crystal chandelier, scored teal-colored cement flooring and vaulted walls in bold hues of burgundy, gold and dark purple. The main dining room is encased in arched paned-glass windows that beautifully frame the city view below. Tables are placed a decent space apart from each other and, everywhere you look, there's evidence of style and grace.
The master definitely has not lost his touch. And that's only the beginning. A sampling menu is still a standard feature at Janos, a multi-course extravaganza served with ($100) or without ($65) matched wines. Although several of the dishes look tempting, I am put off by a dish of marinated rabbit loin. A 4-H project gone awry resides in a hutch in my backyard; eating his brethren seems like a betrayal, so I retreat to the regular menu. As before, Janos' menu is a revolving door of perennial favorites and new concoctions. It's always a thrill to discover the changes since your last visit. Spicy, seared sea scallops served with succotash and a yellow mole sauce ($13) help whet our appetites for what is to come. The muffin-sized scallops are tender and sweet with a touch of red chile heat encrusting them. The fava bean, black bean and corn succotash is a heavenly mash of flavor emboldened by the piquant molé and a smattering of red pepper. Also intriguing as a starter is a single enchilada, rolled with lobster, toasted pumpkin seeds, white cheddar cheese, chopped scallions, fresh corn and topped with a zesty tomatillo salsa ($14). Smoky and dense, the enchilada is best shared in order to avoid a premature "I'm full" exit from the evening's festivities. The semi-sweet, cilantro-nipped tomatillo salsa weaves tantalizingly around every bite. A shrimp, chili and sweet corn bisque ($10) is a marvel, served encased in a delicately browned puff pastry all held within the confines of a small tureen. Breaking through the flaky crust is like opening a gift. The heavenly scent of the steaming soup teases the senses with a siren-like allure, and the first bite lives up to every expectation. Velvety smooth, with tender bits of shrimp, sweet white corn and mild green chili, this is a soup worthy of reverence. Top-end fare often includes steak, but nowhere is this standard better done than at Janos. An enormous New York strip steak is grilled to the chef's recommended medium rare specification and then topped with an effusion of braised sweet red onion and a luscious bordelaise and chili hollandaise sauce ($32). The beef is tender, flavorful and well-suited to the honeyed onions and full-bodied sauce, which retains just enough heat to be interesting without becoming boorish. We also sample the chicken breast stuffed with a habañero and cilantro pesto, which comes served with a pinto bean coulis, fresh corn pudding and cilantro rice ($26). The chicken is tender and the habañero is tastefully muted. The corn pudding is made with the same delicious sweet corn that has worked its way into many other dishes this evening and the bean coulis soaks up the Southwestern flair of the dish admirably. The cilantro rice is powerfully herbed, which is fine if you love cilantro, but a bit daunting if you prefer it in smaller doses. The sensation of the evening, however, turns out to be a gateau of mashed potatoes, spinach, mushrooms, squash flan and an impressive garden variety of baby vegetables ($24). It is hard to do justice to this remarkable dish: each of the vegetables--chayote and yellow squash, pale baby beets, carrots, asparagus, mushrooms--was perfectly cooked, sweet and delicious. (Our server informs us that the vegetables are all organic and come from a small farm located about 45 miles south of Tucson). The mashed potatoes are blended with parsley and other fresh herbs, which imparts a green color and savory character. The flan and sautéed spinach are simply exquisite. Wilder has created something truly special for all those vegetarians who've grown weary of too many salads and pasta primavera dishes. Bravo! Desserts ($7.50 each) are as breathtaking as everything else on Janos' menu and include chocolate creations, baked custards and seasonal fruit specialties. It's difficult to resist the novelty of a dark chocolate jalapeño ice cream sundae and, although we know we should diversify our choices, I opt for molten chocolate soufflé served with caramel sauce. A Janos trademark for years, chocolate jalapeño ice cream's cool silky richness with a telltale after-burn never ceases to amaze. The chocolate truffle soufflé is warm, dense and satisfying as only chocolate can be. The dish also comes with the most dressed-up strawberry I've ever seen--a coating of white and dark chocolate cleverly applied to look like a tuxedo jacket makes this fruit a real dandy. The verdict is in: Janos' migration to the Foothills is a success. A bit of history and an ounce of character may have been left behind, but every other aspect of the acclaimed restaurant has survived the move blessedly intact.
Janos at the Westin La Paloma Resort. 3770 E. Sunrise
Drive. 615-6100. Open for dinner from 5:30 p.m. on Monday
through Saturday. Closed Sundays. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, DC, CH.
Menu items: $10-$35.
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Hardly. I'd forgotten that immortals are not subject to the same
rules of limitation as the rest of us. Not only is Janos doing
quite well in his new surroundings, he's literally thriving. Despite
the time of year, despite the drastic relocation, despite all
the indicators to the contrary, business at Janos is booming.
A perusal of the menu reassures that the quintessential Janos
magic still holds sway. Wilder is noted for his ability to fuse
the mastery of classic French cooking with regional ingredients
from the Southwest. Evidence of this happy union is found throughout
the menu. An appetizer of Janos' own fish and chips consists of
a trio of seafood salads: salmon tartare with fresh basil, truffle
oil and a balsamic glaze served on gaufrette potatoes; minced
sushi grade Ahi tuna with mint, lemon grass, jalapeño and
lemon cream served on a crisp plantain; and a crab salad served
with tortilla chips and salsa fresca. Next comes a chilled tomato
soup with shredded Dungeness crab, julienned apples, jicama and
radishes, with a drizzle of chive-basil oil. A pan-seared venison
chop rubbed with a spicy chile-lime paste and pecans, served atop
a tomato and black bean coulis with chayote sauce, and accompanied
by a wild mushroom and chorizo tortilla casserole and smoked tomato
salsa rounds out the main course. I won't even go into what's
for dessert.
