|
|
 |
 Wildflower Restaurant Boasts A Bumper Crop Of Delicious Offerings. By Rebecca Cook THINK L.A.: IF there's one, succinct phrase that captures Wildflower, the new restaurant on North Oracle and Ina roads, that's it. From its spectacularly slick, contemporary interior design and a menu featuring an intriguing mix called "New American" cuisine, to the scrubbed and beautiful waitstaff, Wildflower would blend in just as easily off Rodeo Drive as it does in its actual location in the Casas Adobes Center.
Set any feelings of inadequacy aside, diners: Wildflower handily transcends the trap of image without substance, with a kitchen that turns out an impressive array of savory fare. When the food is as good as it consistently is at Wildflower, you can forgive any amount of pretension in outward appearances. For all his past accomplishments (Metropolitan Grill, City Grill, Firecracker Bistro and Gilligan's Bar & Grill), Wildflower may be co-owner Sam Fox's most impressive venture yet. The best elements of all his other restaurant endeavors seem gloriously synthesized here: His New American cuisine is culled from a reverence for open-flame grilling, a fascination with the Pacific Rim and a healthy respect for the appeal of American comfort food. For a first course, we sampled a warm Maine lobster salad with mixed greens, artichoke hearts and tender asparagus tips tossed in a white truffle vinaigrette. The bites of lobster were tender and fresh, the asparagus tender-crisp and the vinaigrette delicately zesty--an elegant and indulgent way to begin a meal.
On our waiter's enthusiastic recommendation, I ordered the wood-grilled double pork chop served with caramelized apple slices, sautéed, wilted spinach and a gentle mound of garlic whipped potatoes. For the record, a double pork chop is roughly two inches thick and about five inches across, a substantial piece of the pig. How Wildflower is able to cook this cut thoroughly and still maintain its sinful succulence is a mystery, but this was indeed the case. A crispy red snapper was served encrusted in a seasoning not unlike the blackening of Cajun cuisine: a flavorful, zippy complement to the mildness of the fish. A potato-basil puree and a sauté of red and yellow pear tomatoes in that white truffle vinaigrette rounded out the dish admirably in taste and texture. With the addition of sandwiches and a more truncated version of entrée offerings, lunch kicks off at Wildflower with the same panache. Salads also take on some new guises, including an excellent marinated Chinese chicken tossed with shredded Napa cabbage, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell peppers and slender strips of crispy wonton. The bright flavors and restrained use of the marinade dressing (rice vinegar and sesame) won me over completely. Molded into the shape of a large tower, this is an impressive salad all around. A pretzel-bread sandwich piled high with shaved pastrami brisket and Swiss cheese made another satisfying--and enormous--mid-day meal. The pastrami was so lean it might have appeared on a Heart Healthy menu, although the bluff of accompanying French fries disqualify the dish from further consideration in this regard. Not surprisingly, dessert can be the crowning glory of a meal at Wildflower, although some diners may lament the lack of a special dessert menu or tray from which to make their selections. Count on the closer costing at least five bucks, and dive in and enjoy. On our first visit, we opted for Bananas Foster, a New Orleans tradition with bananas sliced and sautéed in a glaze of butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and rum, flambéed and served over vanilla ice-cream. Wildflower's variation substitutes shredded orange peel and Grand Marnier for the traditional cinnamon and rum: a tasty though unconventional approach. A trio of sorbets was delightful: scoops of lemon, raspberry and mango ices served with fresh strawberries, cinnamon-soaked apple slices, chopped mango and raspberries, and then dusted with chopped, fresh mint. An espresso cheesecake with a graham cracker crust was another standout, especially for coffee lovers who prefer a less dense cheesecake and strong flavors. All those beautiful servers are friendly, professional and efficient, and work hard to ensure that your experience at Wildflower is a resounding success. The decision to have the restaurant provide full-cover service was an extremely good one.
Tucson becomes more fortunate with each passing year as the
list of fine-dining options grows. Add Wildflower to that list
of indulgences. Truly, our cup runneth over with an abundance
of good things. Wildflower Grill. 7037 N. Oracle Road. 219-4230. Open daily from 11 to 3 p.m., and from 5 to 9 p.m. Full bar. All major credit cards, checks. Menu items: $3.95-$19.95.
|
 |
Home | Currents | City Week | Music | Review | Books | Cinema | Back Page | Archives
|
 |
© 1995-97 Tucson Weekly . Info Booth |
|
Even the clientele looks lovely in that particularly golden California
way--lots and lots of gold jewelry, several tan, fit and bleached-blond
bodies gracefully sipping claret in their designer clothing; a
formidable fleet of BMWs and Mercedes parked outside. For those
of us who still drive '80s-model compact cars and beat-up Buicks,
Wildflower's hip and trendy atmosphere can be slightly discomfiting.
Aside from getting that inevitable feeling that we don't quite
fit in with this crowd, there's the lingering suspicion that anything
that looks this good has to be a rip-off.
Our forks slid effortlessly through a second appetizer of tender
smoked salmon slices served atop a spread of chive crème
fraiche and tiered potato gallette. Dinner had barely gotten underway,
and we were having a marvelous time.
