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 Its Image May Have Faded, But Ovens' Priorities Are In Order. By Rebecca Cook OVENS' FIRST IMPRESSION is that the seven-year-old restaurant may be a little worse for wear. The painted cement floor is scuffed and dingy, the cream-colored wood frame chairs are chipped and dull, and the lighting is oddly listless and uneven. A concern slowly dawns that the kitchen--once considered one of the brightest and most innovative in town--may have similarly dimmed over the years. A solemn young man approaches the table to divine our intentions for the evening, and uneasily we place an order for the steamed black mussels and a couple of cool libations. Although the drinks arrive promptly, along with a basket of cold but tasty bread and garlic-scented olive oil, our apprehension that the meal will fall short stubbornly lingers.
After the first bite, our unsubstantiated fears vanish completely. Our bodies relax, our eyes inadvertently close in appreciation of a taste so sublime; and when we're finally able to look at each other across the table, we're smiling. It's a good day to dine. If Ovens' interior has frayed around the edges (for all I know this effect is wholly intentional--American rustic?), its kitchen has lost none of the élan for which it is well known. While the menu retains many of the restaurant's original items, several new items have also emerged. Here the menu boasts an eclectic international theme that takes the diner from the farthest corner of the Orient to the Mediterranean, and then back to our own Southwest. It's a delectable, dizzying tour. Ovens' culinary brilliance has never elicited much surprise--one expects no less from co-owner Candace Grogan, who cut her teeth as one of Café Terra Cotta's original partners. It's remarkable, however, that Ovens has solidly maintained its edge with increasingly competitive local restaurateurs, as well as the scourge of chain establishments popping up all over town. Grogan and her staff are to be congratulated. Lunch, dinner and an abbreviated Sunday brunch are served at Ovens. The same basic menu is used for each, with a few specialty items highlighted for the brunch menu.
Roughly 10-inches in diameter, Ovens' pizzas make a fine appetizer for a couple, or suffice as the main course for a heartier eater. Variations run the gamut from four cheeses with fresh tomatoes and basil, to Thai-style chicken topped with a spicy peanut, ginger and sesame sauce, chopped green onions, carrots and melted mozzarella. We sampled the grilled mushroom and tomato variety, which also included chopped scallions, artichoke hearts and goat cheese. It's rare to get a pizza topped with the right amount and combination of ingredients, but Ovens has mastered the art. And the crust is a thing of wonder: moderately thin and golden brown, with a hint of yeasty goodness and a pinch of something more (could it be nutmeg?) to intrigue. One caution, however: If ordering pizza as an entree, chances are good that the other entrees will be finished at different times, resulting in somebody's meal being served lukewarm. In our case, I was the recipient of the tepid platter, while my cohort got to dive into a bubbling hot pizza. Live and learn; or send it back. Even though a tad on the cool side, the flavors in my fresh grilled ahi tuna with a delicate Dijon cream sauce were exceptional. Cooked to a barely pink medium, the steak was moist, flaky and mild, making it an ideal match for the vaguely tangy mustard sauce. Sautéed green beans, cooked tender-crisp, were a marvel; but the real standout side dish was the smoked gouda and roasted red bell-pepper scalloped potatoes, which were honestly just too good to be believed. Tender and paper thin, these layered slices of potato resulted in one superior product. An early Sunday afternoon yielded a similarly pleasing meal, this time enjoyed on Ovens' delightful outdoor patio. A soft, spring breeze kept the temperature comfortable, and the flowers in full array throughout St. Philip's Plaza provided a cheery, convivial atmosphere. Today we sampled a Spanish chicken omelet from the brunch menu, and a generous platter of chicken piccata on angel hair pasta from the regular menu. Pasta is made fresh daily at Ovens, making it a popular choice. The omelet was a major cholesterol knockout, loaded with melted cheddar and tender chunks of chicken, tomato, onion and green chile. A few fresh raspberries and a side of cubed, roasted potatoes completed the ensemble. The chicken piccata was magnificent: two large half-breasts smothered in capers, atop an egret's nest of vermicelli bathed in an aromatic mixture of lemon, garlic and white wine. Desserts are not extensive, but Ovens does try to touch on a complete range of individual weaknesses. A caramelized apple tart baked in that distinctive wood-fired oven is quite good with its flaky crust and lip-smackingly tart filling. A dollop of ice cream or sweetened whipped cream admirably parlays the tang of sour apples. The vanilla crème brulee also puts on a good show, its crust of browned sugar protecting a silky custard underneath. Ovens' version of bread pudding was not nearly as successful. The chopped apples, pears and golden raisins were kind of a treat, but the maple syrup drenching the piece made the finished product way too sweet. The service was uniformly timely and efficient.
Ovens may look a little older, but it definitely isn't worse
for the wear. In fact, the best word for the kitchen here is "mature"--it still serves some of the most reliably decent food in town. Ovens. 4280 N. Campbell Ave. (in St. Philip's Plaza). 577-9001. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. Checks and all major credit cards. Menu items: $4.50-$18.95.
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The mood brightens with the arrival of the mollusks. As the lid
is lifted from the bowl, a steamy and intoxicating aroma wafts
forth. Certainly garlic is there, but what are all those other
scents? Tarragon? Basil? Savory? Our Epicurean curiosity is definitely
piqued.
With the name Ovens, one might rightfully expect that wood-fired
pizza might be a feature. Lest you hastily conclude that this
trendy, So-Cal pie went out of fashion back around the first season
of Melrose Place, let me assure you that Ovens' version
is anything but tired. Quite possibly, this is the best gourmet-style
pizza in Tucson.
