Tucson Weekly: Tea Time! (February 18

At Tohono Chul The Desert May Rule, But The Food Is Top-Notch, Too.
By Rebecca Cook
GIVEN THE EXPLOSIVE growth on Tucson's northwest side, it's almost possible to forget about the rustic splendor of a 48-acre parcel of desert land near Ina and Oracle roads, called Tohono Chul Park. Less than a stone's throw from one of the busiest intersections in town, this relatively pristine, arid preserve keeps a part of the desert character of this area alive and well.
At least 200,000 visitors a year traipse along Tohono Chul's network of trails. They turn out for concerts in the park, art shows and other special events.
Chow Although the natural surroundings and Tohono Chul's knowledgeable docents (always available for questions about the park's flora and fauna) are certainly responsible for attracting a fair share of its visitors, Tohono Chul has other charms; one of them is the Tohono Chul Tea Room.
Cozy, quaint and offering prime dining al fresco, the Tea Room is delightful. Serving breakfast and lunch, the restaurant takes advantage of the daylight hours' abundance of sunshine for a dining experience as lush as the desert in full bloom.
Since the winter months can be wet and cold, a limited number of indoor seats are also available.
Weather permitting, however, the patio is the place to be. Tented umbrellas over tables offer shelter from intense sunlight, while still allowing the benefit of its warmth.
Proprietors Janet and Paul Blackwell have devised a quality menu that's an intriguing blend of Old World custom and contemporary cuisine, all prepared impressively well.
Breakfast is offered daily until 11 a.m., and all day Sunday. A limited but exceptionally well-thought-out menu features simple favorites like a poached egg on toasted English muffin, served with a side of crispy fried potatoes, to an order of huevos enchiladas made with corn tortillas, scrambled eggs, chiles and melted cheese. For petite appetites, an order of scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam might suffice, perfect in combination with a steaming cup of coffee or several varieties of hot tea.
The huevos enchiladas were a standout, nicely piquant with a simmering red chile sauce covering two ample servings of scrambled eggs, diced green chiles, tomatoes, onion and two cheeses. Sour cream and a savory salsa fresca provided just the right dash of spice, and the dainty sides of potatoes and fresh fruit nicely balanced the enchiladas' steam.
Also delicious was an oversized three-egg omelet, filled to overflowing with guacamole, mesquite-smoked bacon and two cheeses. Suitable for the heartiest of appetites (fried potatoes, an English muffin and a cup of fresh fruit accompany the dish), this flavorful omelet was perfect with a generous scoop of salsa. It'll keep you going all day, which isn't a bad deal for just under $7.
The Tea Room's French toast is a dream: thick slices of real French bread conservatively splashed in egg batter and fried on a griddle until delicately golden. A slather of butter and real maple syrup complete the ensemble, with each triangular wedge imparting just the right balance between moist and crispy. A large round of sliced smoked ham, tender and nicely flavored, is a satisfying contrast to this starchy entree.
Lunch is a busy time at the Tea Room, and since the restaurant doesn't accept reservations for parties fewer than six, you'll need to plan appropriately to avoid irritating waits and blown schedules. Between the indoor and outdoor seating, the wait for a table usually isn't long; but it's good to go with a pair of decent walking shoes so you can stroll the grounds if there's a delay.
A wonderful assortment of soups, salads and sandwiches enrich the midday menu, along with spinach fettuccine alfredo, chicken enchiladas, grilled salmon and a vegetarian p‚tÈ of spinach, artichoke and mushroom. Like everything else at Tohono Chul, the selections are exceptional, consistently transcending the common.
Soup combos are a tempting lot, as they allow diners to mix and match the tortilla or soup du jour with either half an egg-salad, tuna or chicken-salad sandwich, tossed green salad, or both. The cream of asparagus looked smoothly divine on the day we visited, but we couldn't resist the house specialty--tortilla soup. This aromatic chicken broth was poured over a nest of melted cheese, with strips of tortilla chips, avocado, chopped tomato and a squeeze of fresh lime juice swimming above. The egg salad held no surprises, but was thoroughly satisfying spooned between large slices of dark rye bread.
The turkey club sandwich was sensational, and once again, fit for the heartiest of appetites. Six wedges of toasted sourdough are filled three inches thick with roasted, thinly sliced breast meat, mesquite bacon, tomato, avocado, red onion and sprouts. Once you manage to wrap your mouth around these gargantuan goodies, you may be in for a bit of a mess. The use of the finest ingredients in all the Tea Room's dishes makes all the difference in turning the expected into the exceptional here.
A chicken taco salad, served in a crisp tortilla bowl, was quite tasty as well: lean chicken breast, red bell-pepper rings, cucumber, carrots, red onion, dark green lettuce, shredded cheese and black olives topped with a Mexican flag striping of sour cream, guacamole and tomato salsa.
Desserts figure prominently at the Tea Room. Cheesecake, chocolate mousse, banana cake, cr'me br°lÈe, apple crisp and lemon sorbet are all tempting, but the fresh fruit cobbler, which changes daily, is the offering most likely to seduce willing participants into caloric excess. The featured fruit on our visit was cherry, which proved too much for a weak-willed dessert lover to fend off. Like every other portion here, the cobbler was huge, filling the entirety of a large bowl with warm fruit and golden crust capped with a mega scoop of vanilla ice cream. Even with the stiff competition, the natural flavor of the cherries came through, undiluted by unnecessary spices or ingredients. The top crust was faintly sweet and cake-like. Our only complaint was that the lower crust rested tough and doughy at the bottom of the bowl, ultimately proving inedible. Whether this was the occupational hazard of microwave reheating, or some mishap in the baking of the dish is hard to say. Fortunately, we were well-sated by the portion, which was too much even for two of us, working diligently, to finish.
The Tohono Chul Tea Room comes by its name honestly, serving high tea every day between 2:30 and 5 p.m. For $8.75 per person, you'll enjoy a pot of your choice of tea and a mouthwatering assortment of finger sandwiches, sweet pastries and scones with cream and jam. The layout is top-notch, and it's a wonderful way to entertain guests new to Tucson. You won't find a better combination of stunning desert scenery and casually elegant cuisine. Plan to take in the panoramic view with a spot of tea sometime soon.
The Tohono Chul Tea Room. 7366 N. Paseo del Norte. 797-1222. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, checks. Menu items: $2.25-$8.75.

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