By Rebecca Cook BEFORE DINING AT Takamatsu, the new Korean barbecue and Japanese restaurant on East Speedway, it might be helpful to review your Eastern cuisines. Far from being a poseur that caters to the whims of a Western appetite, Takamatsu is the genuine article. The preparation and presentation of Korean and Japanese foods here is impeccable; Takamatsu has brought a slice of Asia to the Sonoran desert. In keeping with the Japanese principle that eating and dining should be a feast for the eyes as well as the palate, the dining space at Takamatsu is sublime. Spacious, light, with a few well-placed and elegant decorative touches, Takamatsu immediately makes you feel as though you've left the sullied world of concrete behind. The sushi bar makes a perfectly comfortable place for two people to have a meal and provides entertainment in the form of a chef who compiles finger-food masterpieces. Having never truly jumped on the sushi bandwagon, I approached Takamatsu's offerings with some misgivings. However, the sushi was flawless, absolutely fresh and beautifully served. The California rolls were particularly delicious with delicate folds of fish, avocado and crab meat wrapped in a coating of rice lightly seasoned with rice wine vinegar. Another mouth-watering appetizer at Takamatsu is the tempura. Batter-dipped and deep-fried broccoli, green pepper, yellow squash, asparagus, sweet potato, carrot, zucchini and elongated shrimp--all perfectly cooked--can be dipped into a light soy concoction and nibbled at will. With first course dishes like this, who needs dinner? However, to go to Takamatsu and not have the Korean barbecue would be an egregious omission. Barbecue here is elevated to a new art form that puts most of my own backyard efforts to shame. Diners have the option of doing their own barbecue on a gas center-table grill or having Takamatsu's kitchen do the preparation. Obviously astute at spotting a novice when she sees one, our waitress failed to mention the do-it-yourself possibility. If you're itching to do your own cooking, I recommend you speak up. Not that I had any complaints about the barbecue that came out of the kitchen. The chicken was a small wonder--savory, moist and tender morsels of breast meat served with grilled onions and topped with sesame seeds. The ribs were equally tasty, though not nearly as tender as the chicken. A satisfying, flavorful blend of garlic, ginger and soy distinguished both meats. If you're not into barbecue, Takamatsu's menu is replete with alternatives. Again, a little knowledge about the food is helpful. Many dishes are served cold and uncooked, unthinkable in the American culinary consciousness but a prevailing characteristic of many Japanese and Korean delicacies. On our first visit, my companion ordered the kye jang, blue crab marinated in a spicy soy sauce. After querying the waitress for further details, we were sold. What the waitress did not say, and what we did not know, was that the dish is served cold and the crab is raw and still in the shell. I'm quite sure this is precisely the way the dish should be served, but surprises of this nature can be unhappy ones for the uninitiated diner. I'd recommend Takamatsu's staff make sure people know what they'll be getting. A spicy chicken and vegetable stirfry, dak bokeum, was a complete success on another occasion, prompting my friend's comment that she could eat this fare every day. In both Japanese and Korean cuisines, side dishes are extremely important, and Takamatsu provides a bevy of dips, hot sauces, soups, salads, kimchi and other vegetables. Miso soup begins each meal along with a basic green salad with a light red chili-spiced vinaigrette. Other sides vary, but may include the ubiquitous kimchi, sesame spinach, shredded daikon and pickled bean sprouts. Don't overlook these small dishes--each is a treasure and can be combined with your barbecue in a myriad of delicious ways. One note of warning for the timid palate: Korean food can be high-voltage; they have a love for the red chili that rivals anything you've seen here in the Southwest. And beware that little green paste garnishing your plate; it'll clear your sinuses for the next several months. If you already love Japanese and Korean food, Takamatsu should please you. If you're just beginning to explore this cuisine, consider it a scrumptious crash course in Asian culture. Soon you'll be grilling barbecue and sampling octopus sushi with the best of them.

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