Tucson Weekly: Brewski Biz (February 5

It's A Great Time To Be A Hungry Beer Drinker In The Naked Pueblo.
By Rebecca Cook
IN THE LAST few years, the microbrew-pub phenomenon that's slowly transformed the way Americans view beer has finally surfaced big-time on the local scene.
First noted with the appearance of the now-defunct River Road Brewery, the latest suds-sucking fad now boasts no fewer than six establishments that make and sell the majority of their beer on site.
Chow While sales for the major domestic breweries have remained relatively flat for the last several years, the sales figures from microbreweries have skyrocketed--to at least double their former market share.
Apparently thrilled to have something other than the usual light lager to sip, Americans are rediscovering the pleasures of various ales, stouts, porters and pilsners. These brews commonplace to a European tour have been a rarity on the American scene for the last century.
In Tucson, two more establishments on the northwest side of town are now providing tastier, more interesting beer. The Pusch Ridge Brewery & Restaurant on North Oracle Road, and Thunder Canyon Brewery in the new-and-improved Foothills Mall both offer not only brewskies of uncommon flavor and character, but also food that far exceeds the typical pub-grub fare.
Located in a former country swing bar, Pusch Ridge Brewery is the love child of four Tucson couples who've labored intensely to bring this business into its own. Nat and Kathryn Rowell, Thom and Lori Bruzzina, Lane and Suzanne Gilpin and Robin and Tami Wiggins not only contributed their visions and hard-earned savings to the project, but also a considerable amount of elbow grease. Rumor has it that the owners and several of their family members and friends completed the majority of the remodeling on the place.
Still clearly a bar in every sense of the word, the establishment now has the additional charm of a trellised outdoor patio, ceiling fans and distinctive copper-topped tables.
Brewmasters Lane Gilpin and Robin Wiggins handcraft a selection of four to six beers at any one time from their seven-barrel operation, and the consensus from my samplings is that the finished product is excellent in all instances.
A crisp golden wheat, a hearty porter, a bitter stout and a full-bodied amber are just a few of the offerings you might find at Pusch Ridge, although seasonal specialties are also available. Personal preferences aside, there are no bummers here. These guys not only have a good grasp of what they're doing, they appear to be having a heck of a good time in the process.
Wearing two hats, Wiggins stands in as a co-chef at Pusch Ridge, alongside Thom Bruzzina. Both are committed to remaining a step ahead of the typical burgers-and-fries menu. Those treats are available, of course, but they're accompanied by an intriguing assortment of soups, salads, specialty pizzas and pastas.
What would a pub be without something deep-fried? On our visit we opted for the delectable crunch of just-out-of-the-vat onion rings, my personal Achilles heel in the struggle to eat healthy. Mild, sweet onion rings enveloped in a crisp, not-too-thick coating were most satisfactory, especially when dipped in ranch dressing or honey-ale mustard sauce.
Salads are fresh and interesting, consisting of mixed baby greens, slivered carrots, shredded red cabbage, tomato, red onion, cucumber and Greek olives.
Pizzas are hand-tossed and served in proportions that can be handily shared as an appetizer or consumed solo for a complete meal. Cheese lovers will revel in the "just cheese please pie," a thin, yeasty crust topped with a mildly piquant red sauce and a gilded overlay of melted provolone, mozzarella, parmesan and romano.
Two pasta dishes transcend the ordinary, one made with an assortment of wild mushrooms, the other with tomatillo, chicken and green chile.
Always a sucker for fungus, I chose the wild mushroom and herb linguine, a tasty mix of both wild and domestic 'shrooms, garlic and a concentrated mushroom glaze. Pancetta bacon can also be added for a twist, but we passed on in favor of the vegetarian version of the dish.
Although the smoky, bold flavors of this dish at first took me by surprise, I gradually found myself relishing the luxurious sauce and the differing textures of the various mushrooms. Although I missed the intrigue of herbs other than garlic, this item was still a keeper.
Thunder Canyon offers much of the same fare as Pusch Ridge, but in a loftier, more refined space--just the thing for a reprieve from the rigors of mall shopping. Vaulted ceilings, skylights and a roomy 12,000-square-foot expanse make the brewpub experience much more urbane, which will definitely appeal to many who typically eschew the bar scene.
Owners John and Roxane Nielsen got started in the brew business about four years ago with the opening of the Prescott Brewing Co. in northern Arizona. They've now brought their expertise south, along with a newly devised menu that also attempts to circumvent the mundane.
Perhaps semantically cuter and a bit more formulaic than the down-to-earth Pusch Ridge Brewery, Thunder Canyon's menu nevertheless gives diners a myriad of choices, including several appetizers, pizzas, fish and chips, sandwiches, salads, fajitas and a few vegetarian items.
We thoroughly enjoyed the house specialty dip, served warm with artichoke hearts, scallions, parmesan cheese and sour cream in a yeasty bread boule accompanied by carrots, celery and broccoli spears. On the other hand, we were slightly disappointed in the Bubba Gump pizza, whose barbecue sauce, lavosh crust and popcorn shrimp failed to impress. As I glimpsed a platter of the lightly ale-battered cod with red potato wedges, I was filled with regret. Next time.
Up to eight beers are available daily, with four standard flagship brews: sandstone cream ale, desert amber, Catalina pale ale and obsidian porter. Again, the beer is outstanding, and hops fanatics should be able to find at least one variety that strikes their fancy.
In case you want the great beer but can't hang around, Nielsen offers a half-gallon Thunder Canyon jug of brew that can be returned as needed for take-home refills. What will they think of next?
Yes, indeed. It's a very good time to be a hungry beer drinker in Tucson.
Pusch Ridge Brewery & Restaurant. 5861 N. Oracle Road. 888-7547. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday , 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. V, MC, checks. Menu items: $2.50-$7.95.
Thunder Canyon Brewery. 7401 N. La Cholla Blvd. (in the Foothills Mall). 797-2652. Open 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. V, MC, AMEX, Chechks. Menu items: $2.50-$12.95.

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