Yank Shing Express Inspires A Devoted Following. By Rebecca Cook IMAGINE THIS SCENE: Two women saunter into The Weekly's business office one day to inquire about taking out ad space to pitch the wonders of a local Chinese restaurant. No problem--a few forms to fill out, the small matter of a fee to be paid and it's a done deal, they're told. As the paperwork is completed there arises the inevitable query, "And would either or both of you be the owners or managers of the restaurant?" The women look up, somewhat surprised, and answer in the negative. "What exactly is your role with the restaurant?" they're asked. "Satisfied customers," is the response. This sequence of events hardly being common, my curiosity was piqued. Had Tucson acquired a Chinese restaurant so fabulous as to inspire such devotion among its clientele? I set off to the Yank Shing Express, dubious but hopeful, to find out. Be forewarned: You'll have to risk life and limb to get anywhere near it. Its proximity to Grant and Campbell, one of Tucson's busiest intersections, can make left-hand turns an adventure in survival. Having come through that hazard intact, I was fortunate to score one of the few parking spaces in the narrow strip mall housing the restaurant on the west side. Given the traffic and parking distractions, it's no wonder I hadn't noticed the place before, even though it's been open for more than two years. The place is small, starkly lit and devoid of decorative embellishments. But don't allow these shallow considerations to dissuade you from your course; those who find their way to a table will discover much to their liking. Yank Shing Express abounds in congeniality. Owner Larry Lee and three generations of his family welcome you as though you were a guest in their home; and they'll do everything within their power to make sure you go away happy. It's impossible not to make a personal connection with the Lee family, and, by the time you make a second visit, you're greeted like an old and valued friend. And the food? Well, I wouldn't say it dwarfs its competition, but it's certainly on par with, and often better than, any Chinese food I've sampled in Tucson. The Yank Shing Express is more than worth the minor inconveniences it takes to eat there. At $3.99, a weekday all-you-can-eat lunch buffet proved a resounding success. Not as extensive or elaborate as other buffets in town, Yank Shing's was nevertheless remarkable for the quality of each item on the table, including the infinite supply of crisp egg rolls. Beef and broccoli, a mixed vegetable stir fry, fried rice, egg foo young, chicken chow mein and egg flower soup completed the buffet offerings. Rather than dumping large amounts of food onto the table, Yank Shing instead adds freshly prepared items as needed, thereby avoiding the trap of sad and soggy entrees left too long at the fair. If variety is not the spice of your life, you can select from the a la carte menu or the listed lunch specials, which run a mere $2.99 a plate. Specializing in Cantonese cuisine, Yank Shing offers many of the standard Chinese food favorites. Although several menu items are starred as being hot, the food here is nowhere near as fiery as that found in restaurants featuring Szechuan cooking. A sesame chicken ($6.95), tender strips lightly battered, fried and coated with a dark semi-sweet soy glaze and sprinkled with sesame seeds, was enormously satisfying--the kind of dish you can nibble away on for hours without ever realizing you're stuffing yourself. The moo shu vegetables were particularly tasty, stir fried to crunchy perfection and served with delicate Chinese pancakes and plum sauce ($4.95). If you're a solid moo shu fan, you can variously indulge your fancy with either a beef, pork, chicken or shrimp version. Newly added to Yank Shing's offerings is a weekend Dim Sum. Cantonese for "heart's delight," dim sum includes a variety of small, mouth-watering dishes selected from a circulating cart as your appetite (and pocketbook) allows. Although I haven't had the pleasure of taking part in this event, I've definitely added it to my calendar. If you're a Chinese food fanatic having a hard time finding solace in the Sonoran Desert, give Yank Shing Express a try. It may not be quite as good as a trip to San Francisco, but it's close. Yank Shing Express. 2513 N. Campbell Ave. 326-8615. Open Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday noon to 8:30 p.m. Dim Sum served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. No alcohol. V, MC, Ch. Menu items: $1.95-$12.95. Chow Scan is The Weekly's selective guide to Tucson restaurants. Send comments and updates to Chow, P.O. Box 2429, Tucson, AZ 85702; or use our e-mail address, tucsonweekly@tucsonweekly.com. These listings have no connection with Weekly advertisers.

		© 1995-97 Tucson Weekly . Info Booth