Forget the fancy cookies and crackers and the live lobsters: What makes AJ's worth the trip up into the foothills is the luxurious, profligate exhaustiveness of its produce selection. Need chayote? A bird's eye pepper? Celeriac? A pink lady apple? Six kinds of melon? They've got it. Of course it's pricey--the fact that they can afford to throw away the stuff that doesn't sell is exactly the reason they have everything. You can get better tomatoes for less at the farmers' markets, but when the recipe calls for a vegetable you don't know how to pronounce, AJ's is your best bet.