STAFF PICK: What exactly is the season for green corn tamales? Whenever we see that little rejoinder on a menu, "available in season only," we confess to a slight increase in anxiety. It has seemed to us on a number of occasions that green corn tamales are served in area restaurants year round. Rather than risk the humiliation of requesting the coveted item out of season, we just wait until Lerua's sets up that A-frame sign on East Broadway, thereby stating with ample authority that these Mexican delicacies are freshly available. For years, Lerua's has enjoyed the local rumor of having the best green corn tamales in town. Just one taste will confirm that this is praise well-deserved. Peeling away the hot corn husk is a little like opening a package on Christmas morning. The cornmeal masa is moist and firm, with tiny kernels of fresh corn peeking out mischievously. Strips of green chile lay gracefully on top of the masa, and if you look closely, you'll glimpse the cheese that's kneaded into the whole. Lerua's tamales literally melt in your mouth. If there's a more perfect food on the face of the planet, we'd sure like to hear about it.